Tag: Interior Design Saratoga Springs New York

Bathroom Makeover: Installing Wallpaper {Day 17}

Written by Jenna on November 20, 2014. Posted in Bathroom Makeover, DIY, Wallpaper. 2 Comments on Bathroom Makeover: Installing Wallpaper {Day 17}

If you follow along with me on Instagram, then you may have seen a few sneak peeks of the next phase of the Bathroom Remodel… the WALLPAPER! Tile is done (well mostly) and after 17 days of cutting, grouting, tiling, I never want to touch another tile again in my life. Now we know that’s not true. But in all honesty, it was a big job. Totally doable for any skill level, but just time consuming!

As I move forward with this Bathroom Makeover in 30 Days Challenge, the walls are now adorned with pure beautiful.

Take a look…

Can we say dynamic?! What do you think??

The evolution of this bathroom has been quite interesting. Every moment I think I am leaning one direction, I end up going the opposite way. Such as life, I guess. Originally my plan was to go basic and neutral for the base elements, and then add pops of color and interest with layers. Before tiling, I painted over the previous yellow paint color with a neutral greige. Once the white tile went up, it felt boring. It wasn’t a reflection of my design style or the home we’ve created. It needed something… Then I found the wallpaper.

This wallpaper by Serena and Lily gave the perfect amount of eye-catching intrigue without overwhelming the space. There is still a lot of whites + neutrals, and with the other elements I have planned, it’s going to be my next favorite space.

So on to the install…

I’ve wallpapered areas in my home before including the powder room and my son’s bedroom. Both were one wall projects and didn’t involve a lot of cutting. When working with a tight space that has lots of nooks, crannies, and crevices, it can get a bit tricky.

Differently from the other walls I’ve used wallpaper on, I never before used a wallpaper paste. A discussion started a few weeks back on a picture I shared on Instagram about using wallpaper primer. An expert chimed in strongly suggesting using wallpaper primer before wallpapering, ” You can install wallpaper without primer if you have smooth walls, however, it’s going to be a pain later when when you want to remove it. If you prime your walls, the wallpaper will roll down in long flowing strips. If you don’t prime, the drywall comes off with the wallpaper in 6+ years.” My thought upon this input… USE WALLPAPER PRIMER.

I chose this clear wallpaper primer at Lowe’s and the gallon was about $16. I used the smallest amount so a little goes a long way. I wish they sold it in smaller amounts, but o well.

I poured the primer into a paint tray and using a roller, I applied it to the walls. You really only need a thin coat because it is watery. I found after a few minutes some of the primer dripping down the wall, so I took a cloth and dabbed it so it wouldn’t harden.

In about 3 hours, it was dry and ready to wallpaper. I waited till the next morning to start though…

Supplies for Wallpapering

Wallpaper
Wallpaper Paste
Smoothing Tool
Sharp Razor or blade
Other handy tools for wallpapering are: a tape measure, a laser level, a pencil

How-To Wallpaper

I started off at one edge of the wall and worked my way around the room from that point. Because I am planning on adding moulding at the top of the wall, and a tile trim piece at the bottom, measuring exactly wasn’t needed – phew! I measured about the length of the wall and cut my wallpaper with a scissor. Then I layed it on the floor so I could apply the paste.

Unlike with my previous wallpaper experiences, this time I applied the wallpaper paste to the back of the wallpaper as indicated on the instructions that came with the wallpaper. In the past, I put the paste directly on the wall, then adhered the paper. I wanted to see if this other method worked better (and in the end, it did!). Why? I felt that by adding the paste to the back of the wallpaper instead of applying the paste to the wall there resulted in less air bubbles and air pockets. The paper was easier to smooth out which avoided the paper from getting creased or damaged.

I applied a nice coating of wallpaper paste using an inexpensive paint brush.

Then I let the paper sit about 3 minutes (as the instructions stated) and aligned it on the wall.

Once I positioned it where I thought it look best, I used a long level (sorry no picture) and made sure it was vertically plumb. Once I had the paper in the right place, I used the smoothing tool to smooth out the paper from air bubbles and air pockets. It’s best to start in the center of the paper and work your way out to the edges.

Once the paper was smooth, it was time to move on to the next piece. I cut another piece of wallpaper length and then aligned it edge to edge with the previous piece. Never overlap the wallpaper.

Once it was smoothed out, I took a lint-free rag and cleaned off the paste from the seams. One reason that I love this paper is that is easily cleanable.

This damask looking wallpaper was really nice to work with and the quality was very good, but I was slightly unhappy with the design repeat when I went to align the edges. The design didn’t match exactly like it should and I was bummed about it. I tried my best to line up the design to make it look right. Thankfully the pattern is so busy that you don’t really notice.

Once I had the 2 sheets up, I was feeling really confident in my work. I continued around the room and then I came to my first obstacle… the corner and the door.

For this area, I used the old method of applying the paste to the wall because I was afraid if I didn’t, the paste would get on everything – door, tile, etc. To start, I measured and trimmed the paper leaving lots of extra on the edges. Then I put it in place and trimmed again until the size of the paper fit the exact space.

I had a few other obstacles to overcome like the outlets, the switches, and the light. I typically use a scissor or a sharp blade to cut the paper.

Before I knew it, a few hours later, all the walls were covered and the wallpapering process was complete.

A recap of the before & in-progress now.

Whats up next?

The moulding at the top + the tile trim around the shower & walls…

As you can see, this new bathroom space is surely NOT going to be boring. I can’t wait to finish it up and finally use it. Even though there are lots of little things still to do, I am thrilled with the direction that it is taking.

The installation of this dynamic wallpaper took about 5 hours on one day

Follow along on this bathroom remodel with these other posts
Plan of Action {Day 1}
Demo: Removal + Installation of the Tub & Walls {Day 2-4}
How-To Tile + Grout the Bathroom Walls {Day 5-16}
Installing Wallpaper {Day 17}
Adding a Tile Accent Border {Day 18}
Creating a Tiled Niche {Day 19 + 20}

Coming up (still to do)
Details: Moulding, Lighting, Accessories
Finishing Touches
Bathroom Remodel Reveal

{Day 17} Wallpaper â€“ Complete! 13 more days to goâ€¦

This post is sponsored by Loweâ€™s, but all thoughts and opinions are 100% my own. I am thrilled (and a bit nervous) about tackling this project, but very excited to be partnering with Loweâ€™s on creating an entirely new bathroom space. Iâ€™d love for you to follow along on this new project!

Check out more of my posts on wallpapering

[Frames Wallpaper in my son’s bedroom]

[Amy Butler Wallpaper in my Powder Room]

Bathroom Makeover: DIY Tips & Tricks on How-To Tile + Grout a Bathroom {Day 5-16}

Written by Jenna on November 12, 2014. Posted in Bathroom, Bathroom Makeover, DIY, Tile. 3 Comments on Bathroom Makeover: DIY Tips & Tricks on How-To Tile + Grout a Bathroom {Day 5-16}

It’s Day 5-16 for the next phase of this Bathroom Makeover in 30 Days Challenge.

The tile is done. I could not be more happy. It wasn’t difficult, but it took a long time. Rightfully so since this 5′ x 8′ space is almost completely covered in tile.

Before this I had only tiled small areas – a fireplace surround, a kitchen backsplash, and a bathroom backsplash (and a few floors but that was using luxury vinyl tile). But this was a mega job. I was nervous and I got overwhelmed at times. BUT it’s complete and it feels so good. And looks good too. I’m still no expert, but I surely have some tips to share. Take a look at the bathroom now…

And just to give you a reminder of what it looked like before…

Before I got started, I put together a Plan of Action and that has kept me on track when picking and choosing the new elements + items for the bathroom.

I’ll admit though, even though it is a small space finalizing a design direction was tricky. My #1 objective was to make it functional (since it’s the hall / kids bath) and classic (subway tile), but I also wanted to bring the unexpected (wallpaper). I searched the tile aisle of Lowe’s many times before finding a tile that I loved…

In the end, I chose to move forward with 3 x 6 white subway tile and 13″ x 13″ natural stone herringbone mosaic

Once the removal & installation of the tub + cement board walls were complete, it was time to tile! To start, I chose the center point of the space – the back wall – and worked my way out and around the room. I marked out a level line at the base of the tile so I the tile would be as plumb as possible.

When starting the first row, it is important to keep the tile about 1/8 – 1/4″ above the tub deck (I used shims so the tile would not slide down). Instead of filling this gap with typical grout, use an expandable sealant to repel the water.

Tip to Know: Subway tile is the only tile that has a slight bevel, so there is no need to add a spacing/ joint between tiles. If you added a joint (using a spacer) than the joints would be very large. The pro for using subway tile is they stack one on top of the other. The con for using subway tile is you have no wiggle room. If a tile is off (when using spacers), you can cheat on the next tile or the next row, but not with subway since ever tile butts next to each other.

I continued my way around the base of the tub and installed the tile on the plumb line.

Once the first row was finished and the tile was cured, I continued my way up the wall starting at the back.

Somehow, somewhere I got this crazy-zany idea to introduce an accent tile. Yes gorgeous, but should an inexperienced person (me) be acting like a pro on the Day 2 of tiling? I asked myself late one evening. Well there was no going back…

Once I figured out how large I wanted my accent tile inlay to be, I marked lines on the wall using a level. Then to outline the accent tile, I used a 1/2″ x 6″ pencil liner.

The two sides of the accent tile nearly killed me because of all the cuts, but I kept saying to myself, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.

But then, the sides were done, the pencil tile was added to the top and the bling-bling accent tile was ready to be installed!

For the accent tile, I found the midpoint of the box and laid the first tile which is 13″ x 13″ natural stone herringbone mosaic (on a mesh sheet backing). Then I added the adjacent tiles. For this part, the Mister and I worked fast because we wanted to avoid the tiles from sliding down (gravity was not our friend on this day).

FYI: I tried taking as many pictures along the way, but to be honest, my hands were messy and filled with mortar. All the pictures were taken with my iphone and much of the project was tackled in the evening (with poor lighting).

[details on adhering the tile to the wall below]

Once the walls of the tub were complete, I continued the tile about 3′ up on the main walls of the bathroom.

Before & After of the sink area…

What’s to Come

Once the subway tile is complete, I will be wallpapering the remaining exposed walls + a decorative border tile will be added to the edge of the subway tile to give a finished look.

Those were the steps I took for installing the tile and here are some details + specifics…

How-To Cut Tile

There are two methods I used to cut the tile, (1) with a hand-held tile cutter (like this) or (2) with a wet saw (like this). There are pros and cons to both.

Hand Held Tile Cutter
The subway tile was fairly easy to cut/trim, so for those cuts I used the hand-held tile cutter and was able to do it right on the bathroom floor. This made the project easier and more manageable to tackle at night (which is when most of the bathroom came together).

Once I marked where the tile had to be cut. I lined it up on the tile cutter. Scored it 3-4 times with the manual blade. And snap. The tile was cut.

For smaller sized ceramic tile, I find that the hand held tile cutter is perfect, but for larger tile (ie: 12 x 12 or larger) and thicker natural stone (ie: the herringbone) a wet saw is needed!

Wet Saw
The beauty of the wet saw is the ease and preciseness of the cuts. BUT it’s messy and there is a setup / cleanup process. Many wet saws come with a stand, but we don’t have one and instead set it up on our driveway. Since water is needed, there is a tendency to get wet and when working on a project late at night, who wants to be running up and down the stairs to go outside to cut tile? NOT I. So, for the cuts using the wet saw (herringbone accent tile and the decorative border tile) we waited till the weekend.

Adding Adhesive to Tile

Because I couldn’t spend 8 hours a days tiling (I wish – I’m glad if I got in 2 hours each day), I mixed small amounts of adhesive at a time, so I had to alter the directions from the back of the bag since they called for using all the adhesive at once. If you plan on tiling over many days, then mix small batches so the adhesive is fresh each time (otherwise it will harden).

Tip: Instead of cleaning out the bucket of mortar (as well as grout) each time, grab about 5-10 small buckets so they can be thrown away. And never ever, ever cleanup your tools in the sink of your home. Yes you can wash your hands, but be sure to run hot water for a few minutes afterwards. Washing a bucket or the tools in the sink of your home could result in the mortar (or grout) hardening in the pipes.

Why am I sharing this with you? Because it happened to me.

The consistency of powder to water should result in a pasty (not watery) mix… It shouldn’t fall easily off the trowel.

Most experienced tile installers put the adhesive on the wall to attach the tile. I tried that and found it made a lot of mess + a lot of wasted product. Instead, I found it much easier to add the adhesive directly to the back of the tile (for both the subway tile and the accent tile). This process may seem longer, but for me it worked better and there was very coverage.

Using a trowel, I added the adhesive to the back of the tile, then using the notched edge, I raked the adhesive in a vertical direction (perpendicular to how it will lay on the wall). Then I applied the tile to the wall.

Once the tile was on the wall, I wiped away the excess adhesive on the tile surface. If I hadn’t, it would have hardened on the surface.

Once the tile was set and the adhesive cured, it was time to grout!

How-To Grout Tile

Grout seals the deal! It not only gives a finished look, but grout “locks in” and secures the tile to stay in position.

For this bathroom renovation, I chose to use unsanded grout (watch this video on how + why to use sanded / unsanded grout). Sanded grout is typically for larger joints from 1/8″ – 1/2″, while unsanded grout is for smaller grout lines that are less than 1/8″.

Using a small bucket, I added the powder then the water to create a pasty mix (similar to the consistency of toothpaste).

When the grout mix was ready, I added a nice amount on to the grout float. Then I chose a starting point and worked the grout into the joints with the float. Once a good sized section of tile was covered in grout, I took a damp sponge and wiped the surface. This not only cleans the tile face but smooths out the grout joints.

You can see how finished the wall looks with the grout by comparing the area with the joints filled in and the area without.

Once the bathroom was tile and grouted, this was the result…

The installation & grouting of the tile & grouting took about 12 days â€“ in total about 25 hours

Just shy of 1600 words, this post is jam-packed with information – I hope I didn’t overwhelm you! I was very apprehensive about tackling such a BIG project and at times I was overwhelmed, but in the end the job wasn’t difficult. Long YES, but not difficult. If I could tackle this huge space, so can you!

{Day 5-16} Tile & Grout â€“ Complete! 14 more days to goâ€¦

From start to finish, these are all the posts pertaining to this bathroom remodel
Plan of Action
Demo: Removal + Installation of the Tub & Walls
How-To Tile + Grout the Bathroom Walls
Installing Wallpaper
Adding a Tile Accent Border
Creating a Tiled Niche
Bathroom Makeover Reveal
Resources

Chalkboard Wood Garland

Written by Jenna on November 6, 2014. Posted in Christmas, DIY. 2 Comments on Chalkboard Wood Garland

Can you believe it’s November? I’m breaking away from the bathroom for a bit (the remodel has taken over my life) to start thinking about this years seasonal decor.

Every year, we enjoy displaying our Christmas favorites, but at the same time we like to introduce new elements & of course, make some fun festive creations (like last years pallet Christmas Countdown). Even though we typically start the process of unpacking the holiday boxes before Thanksgiving arrives, we certainly don’t overlook the beautiful Holiday of giving. For that tricky time when we’re transitioning from one holiday to the next I have created this pretty & nature-inspired Chalkboard Wood Garland.

As the Holiday prep begins, I wanted to make something that would give our family a little reminder to slow down (especially this time of year) & to truly enjoy the moment when everything around us is hustling & bustling.

For now, I thought the word blessings really sums up how we should be feeling and to be thankful for all we have – this time of year and always! This is why the best part of the creation was the chalkboard layer – anything can be added and just as easily erased.

How To Make Wood Garland

To make this wood disc garland, I headed straight to my backyard to grab a big ole’ log. I actually first sent the mister on the hunt and he returned with a fallen branch about 1″ round. That wasn’t going to do, so I threw on my boots and headed for the woods. I returned with a log about 3.5 – 4″ round. He was skeptical we could cut it, but I put our circular saw to the test and it cut like butter.

We created 10 discs about 1″ thick. More or less discs can be cut depending on the word(s) you want to spell out. I thought 10 would be ideal and if one or more discs aren’t used for letters, a pretty picture can be added instead.

Once all the discs were cut, I took my chalkboard paint from Lowe’s (left over from the chalkboard wall) and freehand painted a circle on each disc.

After they dried, which took about 2 hours, I drilled 2 holes about 1″ apart on the wood section of the disc. These holes are for the twine to thread through in the next step.

Then I threaded the twine through. Twine seemed like the right material since it’s a natural feeling and looks rugged like the wood. Though any type of string or ribbon could be used, it just depends on the look you want to achieve.

Since the drilled holes were kind of small, I attached an unfolded paperclip to the end of the twine and wrapped it with duct tape (superman duct tape to be exact, lol. But any tape will do the trick).

I added my letters for the word blessings. I didn’t use any fancy fonts, just what came to mind…

And voila… a beautiful festive garland was created.

Perfect for the mantel, the door, or any wall in the home, this new wood garland can really be used all year round.

I also tried it on the front door along with a pretty red wreath…

Something unique, right?!

This creation has been such a great break away from the bathroom renovation. Even though I love diving into a big DIY project, sometimes simple + quick is much more gratifying. Now I feel inspired & ready for the Holidays.

Have you started thinking about your seasonal & holiday decor?

When do you start decorating?

To gather even more unique, fun, and creative ideas for your indoor and outdoor Winter spaces, I would definitely suggest downloading the Loweâ€™s Creative Ideas app on your iphone and/or ipad. Iâ€™m always checking out the FREE app for great seasonal + do-it-yourself inspiration.

Also consider following Loweâ€™s on Facebook, Pinterest, and Instagram as well.

Disclosure: I am part of the Loweâ€™s Creative Team and was provided with a Loweâ€™s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!

Bathroom Makeover: Demo {Day 2-4}

Written by Jenna on November 3, 2014. Posted in Bathroom, Bathroom Makeover, DIY. 1 Comment on Bathroom Makeover: Demo {Day 2-4}

It just got real. No more dreaming or fantasizing about a new bathroom, because it’s happening NOW.

So it’s Day 2 for this Bathroom Makeover in 30 Days Challenge (day 1 was putting together the plan of action and by day 30 my goal is to be finished) and the DEMO HAS BEGUN!

Instead of me jumping ahead and sharing what it looks like now (a hot mess with walls missing), let me show you what it looked like before…

Yes, the space was fine, but it needed updating. All the fixtures had seen better days. The tub was an insert style and very dated, while the shower/tub fittings were starting to leak and even though I would scrub them regularly, the mildew would not go away.

It pains me to share these before images, but I’m just being real…

The difficult part about a tub insert is that it only goes 6′ high leaving the above space open for water splashing (which could lead to bacteria growth and/or warping of the walls). Because the kids really ~~abuse~~ use this bathroom, the new space not only has to be pretty, but extremely functional. With my kiddos it seems there is more water outside the tub than inside, so the surrounding areas really need to be protected (hence my decision to tile the entire tub area + the lower section of wall around the rest of the bathroom).

The current vanity is a factory-made cabinet and even though I freshened it up a few years ago with a coat of paint, it was starting to warp and fall apart (that’s what eventually happens to a paper composite cabinet that is in a moist area). From the pictures, the space may look okay to you, but close-up it’s not.

Here’s a snap shot of the bathroom right before demo started…

So that’s the story about the before bathroom…

Onto the current.

Removing the Tub + Walls

The plan of action is in place and the start of the renovation has begun. The other day I failed to mention that with all of the kitchens and bathrooms I have designed for others, I have never renovated my own kitchen or bathroom. I think because I know the process and the unknowns that could happen, I have a fear of embarking on such a big project. Putting fears aside, I am psyched about this new proposed space. Like with all big projects, not everything can go as planned. With that being said, LET THE DEMO BEGIN!

1. First up, the removal of the bath fittings.

2. Next up, demoing the walls above the tub using a hack saw.

3. Once the walls above were removed, the screws that held the tub insert in place (to the studs) were removed and the tub got cut up into pieces (separating the sides from the tub) to be hauled out.

This is what the plumbing looked like (in the wall) once the tub was removed…

Installing the New Tub + Walls

4. When the tub was out and the space was cleaned up (somewhat), the new tub was put into place. As I mentioned the other day, we chose to hire this part out and called in a pro to install the tub, as well as the tub fittings so it was done right. We don’t have any experience with installing tubs / tub fittings and the hookups need to be done right to avoid any water leaking. A contractor + a plumber were definitely needed for this job – we know when to call in help, and this was the time!

New studs were also added behind the tub + at the corners to provide the right support + best fit.

5. Next up, the walls! In the tub area cement board was installed (ie: DUROCK > Lowe’s) instead of sheetrock because it’s resistant to bacteria and fungus + will not warp, delaminate, or disintegrate when/if exposed to water – it really it a must-use material in a shower or tub.

I found this very helpful video with a great tutorial on installing backer board

The new cement board butts up to the existing sheetrock walls that continue around the room. It is important to have the two materials align as perfect as possible and also be at the same plane so the tile can be seamlessly applied.

The removal of the old walls + tub and the installation of the new tub and cement board took about 2.5 days – about 10 hours

Removing the Medicine Cabinet

6. Also on day 2, I removed the medicine cabinet that sits near the sink. We never really used it in the past and I thought it would be better served as a niche. I thought the removal process would be tricky, but it was actually very simple.

Inside the medicine cabinet were screws that were screwed into the surrounding studs. I removed the screws and voila, the medicine cabinet came right out.

Now there’s a huge hole. O, the potential for this little niche!

So there you have it – day 2, 3, 4 are complete. There are 26 more days left to meet my goal of a complete bathroom in 30 days! The space looks pretty scary and I’m not feeling super confident, BUT I am trying to stay positive and like always, I’m going to keep chugging along…

Next up… TILE!

{Day 2-4} Tub Removed + Installed â€“ Complete! 26 more days to goâ€¦

Bathroom Makeover: Plan of Action {Day 1}

Written by Jenna on October 29, 2014. Posted in Bathroom, DIY, Paint, Renovations, Tile, Wallpaper. 4 Comments on Bathroom Makeover: Plan of Action {Day 1}

I’m at it again… another project! And this is a biggie. I know, I know…. I haven’t even waited 0.05 seconds before starting something new, but this project has been in the works for over a year and I’m thrilled that my thoughts + ideas are actually coming to fruition! So the next big remodel… the hall/kids bathroom.

This bathroom got a mini DIY revamp about 3 years ago, but it’s been used & abused by two kiddos, so it was time to put my design expertise to work and create a space that would handle the everyday splashes & wear of two busy bees.

Of course, I can’t start the remodel without a plan of action. So here it is. My creative vision board for the new bathroom space…

I’m thrilled to be partnering with Lowe’s on this bathroom renovation and they’ve put me to the test to create a dynamic, on-trend space using their in-stock products (items that can be found in store versus online). My vision for this revamp is to mix my design style of classic eclectic – classic for the background with bold elements layered in! Since the tile is the dominate feature (shower + 3′ up all the walls) in this bathroom, that’s where I started…

My design philosophy when creating any space is to go classic for the elements that are expensive and/or difficult to change. Similar to buying a sofa (which I typically go neutral in color and pattern), I wanted a tile that could “live” a long time… I DO NOT plan on changing the tile in a year or two (or even 5), so it had to be something that I would like now & in the future. There is nothing more classic and beautiful than 3 x 6 subway tile. The bonus, it’s only .22 cents a tile – one of the least expensive Lowe’s has. But (there’s always a but), I wanted something more. I needed to create a wow-factor. So along with the classic subway tile, I am also going to incorporate a gorgeous herringbone carrara marble. Crossing my fingers that it looks as good on the wall as I envision it in my head {squeal}.

But you all know me, I need color somehow, someway. That’s where the layers in the space come in. I’ve selected a dynamic wallpaper that is really give an incredible contract against the classic white subway. It’s bold. It’s unexpected. It’s me.

The classic and the bold are covered! The other elements in this new proposed bathroom are all going to enhance the beautiful classic and bold selections. The old builder-grade vanity will be headed curbside and a new, more modern vanity in an espresso finish will be installed in it’s place. For the lighting, I wanted to introduce another unexpected element and chose an oversized single exterior industrial-style light fixture.

Here’s the catch… I’m doing 95% of this bathroom renovation on my own. I’m crazy, right?! Nutso, but I’m determined. The part that I will not be tackling is the install of the new tub and shower components. The mister nor I have ever installed a tub or shower fittings and are too nervous to tackle it on our own and want to avoid any possible leaks. We know when to call in the pros and the tub install is not within our skill-set. I am sure we could do it, but who wants to take the chance? Not Us! Beyond that though, it’s all on me. Tile, toilet, vanity, lighting… All DIY baby!

Since this bathroom makeover is almost an entirely DIY job, it’s going to take longer than typical, so our goal is to tackle it in 30 days. 30 days start to finish, complete! Can we do it? Let’s see. I hope you’ll follow along on another crazy DIY adventure…

{Day 1} Plan on Action – Complete! 29 more days to go…

This post is sponsored by Lowe’s, but all thoughts and opinions are 100% my own. I am thrilled (and a bit nervous) about tackling this project, but very excited to be partnering with Lowe’s on creating an entirely new bathroom space. Iâ€™d love for you to follow along on this new project!

China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

Written by Jenna on October 23, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 6 Comments on China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

It’s done! What a journey it’s been for this china cabinet.

Upon finding this diamond-in-the-rough on Craigslist and rescuing it from a dilapidated garage that housed chickens, roosters, and a few other unknown animals (I was afraid to even look around), the once trash-bound cabinet now sits beautifully in my dining room with a vibrant new color & a complete designer makeover…

It has been quite the task of getting her to this point, but she’s complete!

We can’t appreciate the ‘after’ without looking at the ‘before’. Remember what she looked like a few short weeks ago…

>>> read more on The Backstory + Choosing a Color <<<

Like I said, it’s been quite a journey. Let’s reminisce…

I was psyched to bring her home. Once she landed in our garage, I started the prep work by removing all the hardware, the doors, and the shelves.

I cleaned her up a bit + lightly sanded all the surfaces.

>>> read more on Prep + Sanding Wood Furniture <<<

Once all the surfaces were ready, it was time to prime! As I’ve shared over & over, priming is SO IMPORTANT. The purpose of paint is to provide color, but the purpose of primer is to provide the ideal base for the paint to be applied. The paint + primer in one is fine for walls, but a true primer like Glidden Gripper (which is what I used) will block the stain from bleeding through and will provide the needed base for the paint to adhere! If you’re painting furniture, YOU MUST USE PRIMER.

>>> read more on Why & How-To Prime Wood Furniture <<<

After the key step of priming all the surfaces, it was time to PAINT! Finally, right?! I chose the color Red Red Rose by Glidden using the Glidden’s new simplified color palette.This is a real wow-factor color and even before finding the china cabinet, I knew this rosy, raspberry hue would be perfection. Typically I have the piece before choosing the color, but not in this case. The other hues + layers in the dining space are fairly minimal and neutral, so I knew a focal point piece that would be the eye-catcher of the room would make a real impact. It’s all about the contrast and the balance between neutrals and bolds.

The process of painting this beauty was laborious, but O So Worth the time + effort!

>>> read more on How-To Paint Wood Furniture <<<

Once the china cabinet was painted & sealed, I wanted to add a few fun, unexpected details. I chose to add self-adhesive, contact paper to the back of the cabinet interior which provided a beautiful backdrop for all my dishes, platters, and china.

When I couldn’t find the exact hardware I had envisioned, I DIYed it to create exactly what I wanted at a fraction of the cost.

Once the ~~jewels~~ hardware was set, it was time to style this gorgeous gal!

It’s now all filled up with our collected plates, glasses, and platters… Believe me, not one new thing was bought for this revamped beauty.

>>> read more on the Details + Hardware + Styling <<<

a recap of the process…

And then she was complete!

The ‘after’…

Let’s compare one more time…

What do you think? Pretty major change, right?!

Thank you so much for following along on this Tale of a China Cabinet Makeover! I’ve received countless emails, comments, and messages on how the multiple posts and step-by-step breakdown of the process has been an inspiration. From your notes, it sounds like many of you have had the urge to paint that piece of furniture but either didn’t know how, weren’t sure of the process, or didn’t have the inspiration needed to get started. I hope I’ve pushed you enough to make the move!

Here are the many posts related to this before and after
Backstory + Choosing a Color
Prepping & Sanding Wood Furniture
Why & How to Prime Wood Furniture
Tips + Tricks to Painting Wood Furniture
Accessories, Details, & Styling {China Cabinet Makeover}
China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

This post is sponsored by Glidden paint, but all thoughts and opinions are 100% my own. I am so excited about this project & was thrilled to partner with Glidden paint on this furniture makeover.

Details + Hardware + Styling {China Cabinet Makeover}

Written by Jenna on October 15, 2014. Posted in Accessories, DIY, Do-It-Yourself, Furniture, Styling. 10 Comments on Details + Hardware + Styling {China Cabinet Makeover}

Yes, the paint color is unexpected, but adding a few other unique details to the china cabinet makeover has really made it a one-of-a-kind, perfect piece (in my eyes).

Last week I finished the most tedious part of the makeover which was painting the cabinet. It took a few days and lots of patience, but the effort was absolutely worth the result in my book! Once the cabinet was complete and dry, I started styling the interior. After living with it for a few days (and sharing a peak on IG), I knew it needed something. I loved the overall dramatic color, but I did want to pare it down a bit and decided to add a special something to the back + this bad boy needed some hardware! Take a look…

Most of my china dishes and platters are plain white (with simple detailing on the edges) so I thought sitting against a dark background they’d look great. Unfortunately though, the interior seemed kind of cavernous, so bringing in something lighter for the back of the cabinet made sense. I found this pretty patterned contact paper and thought it would be the ideal addition to lighten and brighten the cabinet.

Details.

This is a similar project/process to when I added the geometric contact paper to my media cabinet…

After finding the center of the cabinet, I started off by adding the contact paper at the top edge. I then slowly peeled off the backing, section by section, and adhered the paper to the cabinet back while pushing out the air bubbles with my hand.

I also made sure it was vertically plumb so it was hung straight.

Once I was towards the bottom, I left about an 1-2″ extra and cut the contact paper with scissors. I followed that by using a straight edge blade and trimmed the paper so it fit perfectly at the bottom. I also did the same at the top…

Once the center panel was done, I added the self-adhesive paper to the other two sides. In the end, just being honest, there were a few air bubbles that I could not get out. O well, it’s not perfect… The dishes and layered accessories will hide those messy spots.

Once that was complete, I was able to accessorize! But before that, I want to show you what I did with the hardware.

Hardware.

Remember at the beginning of this project I wasn’t sure what to do with the hardware… go with new or use what was original? Well I decided on new. Why? 2 reasons. (1) Some of the hardware was missing – good reason for new, right? (2) I really wanted this piece to be a mix of old and new. I adore the traditional lines of this cabinet (old), yet the color and the added details are more modern (new)… thus my style, Classic Eclectic!

For the hardware, I wanted a bit bling-bling, but on a budget. On one of my daily trips to Lowe’s, I found these beautiful octagonal shaped knobs. I really wanted a brass finish, but they didn’t have them, but for $3 +/- a knob, I couldn’t leave them. So I painted them…

Using brass paint (liquid brass gilding, to be exact) that I had from another project, I painted them using a small brush. It dried within minutes and this unique detail was added to the cabinet.

Check out the before and after of the hardware…

As I shared in the first post [prepping & sanding], I removed the existing hardware before getting started on the makeover. To hide the holes that were on the door fronts, I used wood filler and then sanded once it was dry. The holes that are on the sections that look like drawers, but really aren’t, remained and that is where the new knobs were installed.

What a change, right?!

Styling.

The last part of the makeover was beautifying it with all my stuff… my treasures! Instead of showcasing my china + bowls + glasses the traditional way – by the set (plate/dish/bowl/cup) – I went for a more casual, non-symmetrical route of stacking the plates and dishes, and ‘displaying’ the glasses in groups. This allowed me to maximize the space provided, plus achieve a simpler, less tailored look.

When I started the styling process, I began with the large stack of dinner plates and because they were the heaviest (physically and visually), I put those on the bottom shelf. Then on the middle shelf on the other side, I added in some other random larger + smaller plates and stacked a few glass bowls on top. After adding in some wine glasses (groups of 3 or 6 looked best) on the each side , I stepped back and it looked like this…

I then added in some more pieces to balance out what I had started with. Basically, the plates and glasses are mixed together on each side. Neither side is weighted with only plates and/or only glasses.

Achieving balance is key to successful styling or a successful visual vignette!

I saved the center section of the top cabinet for serving pieces, platters, and bowls. I centered some of the elements, which gives a traditional feel, but other elements are off-center which brings a casual, organic feel.

After adding, editing, moving, and contemplating, it was finished. Styling can be a little tricky, but go with what feels/looks right.

For those not-so-pretty pieces or one-offs, I stored them in the closed section below. I love space with doors… perfect for the not-to-seen decor.

Confession time… I tried getting a picture of the overall styled cabinet, but it was impossible without capturing the reflection as well. I’m not the best photographer, but I try 🙂

I adore how the dining space is coming together and looks so beautiful for Fall…

What a transformation, right?! Now that the cabinet is styled, it’s 99% complete. The next post on this china cabinet makeover will be the reveal – yay! Coming Soon…

Follow along on this makeover with these other posts
Backstory + Choosing a Color
Prepping & Sanding Wood Furniture
Why & How to Prime Wood Furniture
Tips + Tricks to Painting Wood Furniture
Accessories, Details, & Styling {China Cabinet Makeover}

Coming up (still to do)
China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

How-To Paint Wood Furniture

Written by Jenna on October 9, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 36 Comments on How-To Paint Wood Furniture

Prep is done.

Sanding is complete. >>> [tutorial here]

Priming is finished. >>> [tutorial here]

Now on to the painting. This was definitely the longest + most tedious part of the makeover, but absolutely the most important step to focus on. With all the work that has gone in to prepping this cabinet, or any piece of furniture for that matter, painting it right really makes all the difference in the world to achieve a nice looking end product.

This post is completely dedicated to sharing the steps I took + tips & tricks on how-to successfully paint wood furniture.

As I’ve explained and stressed in the previous two posts, the prep work + priming is very important before paint is applied. To achieve a successful end result, a primer is a must. For this project, I used Glidden Gripper primer (a picture of it + more details can be found in the last post). Once the primer is dry, which typically takes little time (about a day), painting can begin.

Before Painting.

The Magic Formula. One of my secrets for painting wood furniture is to use floetrol (<- affiliate link). With all furniture painting projects, I always add my favorite â€œformulaâ€ to eliminate brushstrokes. It works like a charm to achieve a clean, brushstroke-free surface! (And I wasnâ€™t even paid to say that â€“ I truly just love it ;)

The Brush. The brush used for painting really does make a difference. I always use Purdy brushes because they truly make for an easier, better painting result. Yes they are expensive, but it’s worth the cost. Most of the time I use a new brush when starting a project. (Again, I wasn’t paid to say that)

The Color.

The paint color I chose for this cabinet makeover is Red Red Rose by Glidden.

How-To Paint Wood Furniture.

When painting furniture, like this china cabinet, I started on one side of the base cabinet and continued across to the other side while working in small sections. I always continually look at what was just painted to check for drips, which you want to avoid as much as possible!

Typically I will add paint to the overall surface and then go back to smooth it out so all the strokes are in one direction (usually you want to follow the grain of the wood, but it’s not a must since with paint you don’t see the grain).

Even if you try to avoid them, drips are normal. To deal with those nasty, inevitable paint drips, I sand them off once they are completely dry. Using an orbital sander is easiest, but sanding the spot by hand also works. If you catch the drip before it’s dry, then go over it with your paint brush to smooth it out.

I didn’t take a picture of me sanding that drip, but here is one from another section of the cabinet…

Once the paint was dry, I lightly went over the drip to smooth out the section of cabinet.

Another issue I encountered which I didn’t like was the result of the buffet top once the first coat of paint was on. I guess when I added the primer, I didn’t continue my brush stroke from on side to the other, so the top surface looked bumpy. Once the first coat of paint was dry, I lightly sanded the surface. This left the top very smooth and ready for coat #2.

Coat #2

In all the top got about 3-4 coats. All the other areas of the cabinet got 3 coats. Because of the intense color 2 coats wasn’t enough.

Here are some more outtakes while painting…

The cabinet fronts.

The cabinet top.

The base cabinet after one coat.

I will tell you, painting the cabinet took a good 3 solid days of off and on work. It was tiring, but well worth it in the end. Most of the painting took place at night after the kiddos went to bed which is why the coloring of the cabinet in the pictures looks a bit off.

Here’s a peak at what was my crazy life for a few days. Just keeping it real…

Once every surface, nook, and cranny were done, it was time to add a coat of polyurethane.

Applying polyurethane is similar to primer… a little goes a long way. It’s also a lot thinner than paint, so it can easily run creating those annoying drips. Applying a light coat and fanning it over the surface is best. It goes on as a white milky liquid, but as you work it into the surface it will be come clear. And of course it dries clear.

For this cabinet, I used a semi-gloss polyurethane.

And then it was done.

Well almost. The painting is complete, but there are still some details that I need to work on, like the hardware and another secret surprise.

But back to the painting result, here are a few closeups…

You see that one piece of hardware on there? I couldn’t resist giving you a peak at what it will look like once it’s all done.

Next up… styling this pretty gal. Here’s a peak at the start of the process…

Let’s rewind and take a look at where I started and the progress I’ve made.

Not too shabby. More to come. Stay tuned.

Check out the >>> FINAL REVEAL

Fall Tablescape with Gourds Galore

Written by Jenna on October 7, 2014. Posted in Autumn, DIY, Fall. 3 Comments on Fall Tablescape with Gourds Galore

Howdy folks! Fall is in full-swing in northern New York and as we’ve been enjoying the colorful foilage (did you see how we spent our weekend? I posted a peak on IG) , I’m finally feeling the urge to turn the house over for the season. I still have my hands filled caring for my little 3 month old + transforming my latest Craigslist find, but that hasn’t stopped me from adding in a few Fall touches. My perfect spot for the ideal seasonal setup… the dining table.

Alas, this years Fall Tablescape.

Filled with gourds, mums, pinecones, and a few of my go-to styling / decor favorites, my table is all set for the season and will lead us right into our Thanksgiving feast. Don’t you just love when one thing works for multiple purposes + occasions?!

And check out the cute box. I made it. Details on that in a bit…

Everything on my table for Fall is from Lowes, my favorite big box store because it’s my go-to spot for everything I need to build, paint, make, and decorate. Seriously! When this month’s challenge came and it was focused around Fall decorating {mums + ghords}, the dining table was just the spot. And you know I love creating a pretty centerpiece (this seasonal favorite has been pinned over 88,000 times)!

So we all know, I’m a mush for trays. Almost every surface around my home has a tray. Why? Because they are easy to move. Because they’re pretty. Because they create the most perfect horizontal vignette. So this years seasonal tablescape had to have a tray! And an easy one to make, of course.

How-To Build a Wood Tray

My cut list:

(2) 1″ x 4″ x 48″ long
(1) 1″ x 8″ 48″ long
(2) 1″ x 4″ x length TBD (explained in tutorial below)
stain (I used Minwax Special Walnut)
(2) cup pulls (kitchen style drawer pulls work great – I got mine for $3+ in the hardware section of Lowe’s)

1. I decided the length of my tray would be 48″ finished and I determined this according to the length of my table. When people are sitting at the table, the tray will probably be moved, but it doesn’t have to. At 48″ long, there is still plenty of room for people to fit around the table & have enough space at their seat. That being said, if you want to make a similar try, it can be any size you’d like.

I made a mark for my cut and used my circular saw to cut the first piece.

2. Then (without measuring) I layed the 1″ x 4″ x 48″ cut piece onto the uncut piece and marked where to make the cut #2. Following that, I cut the 1″ x 8″ piece (for the bottom) the same way.

3. Using 1″ wood nails (which have a small head), I attached the sides to the bottom.

4. Then I measured the ends and using another 1″ x 4″ board, I cut it to size.

5. Then nailed the ends onto the sides and the bottom.

6. Once the box was complete, I drilled holes at each of the shorter ends for the cup pulls and screwed them in.

One last step… stain!

7. Using Minwax Special Walnut and a lint-free cloth (an old white cotton t-shirt to be exact), I applied the stain and immediately wiped it away because I wanted to keep the look of the box a medium depth (not too dark, not too light) since the table is fairly dark.

The result…

Once the box was complete, within a few hours it was ready to fill. The power of stain can make life quite grand!

I started off with positioning the tall white vase (a recent purchased from Joss and Main) and filled it with branches that I cut down from a tree outside (a non-fruit bearing pear tree to be exact). I’ve been doing this all Spring, Summer, and Fall long and they make the best table centerpiece – they’re beautiful + cost nothing!! They wilt after a few days, but who cares, they’re free. I love the height they bring to the table.

A few days earlier, my kids collected a whole lotta acorns and upon putting them in a tall glass bowl, they made the next perfect addition for the wood box.

Then I added the pretty plum mum. Fall = mums. Am I right?! I had grabbed a bunch in an array of colors for the outside porch a few weeks back and I chose the plum colored one for the box. Deep colored purple, plum, is one of my favorite Fall hues.

Once I had some elements of varying heights and sizes, the base of the box needed to be filled. The colorful gourds and the textured pinecones were the icing on the cake for this Fall Tablescape.

So pretty + colorful, right?! I’m in love. Now that the china cabinet is almost complete, this is the perfect addition to the dining space. More details on the china cabinet makeover coming in the next few days.

Why + How to Prime Wood Furniture

Written by Jenna on October 1, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 5 Comments on Why + How to Prime Wood Furniture

It’s been a busy few days around my neck of the woods. With revamping the china cabinet + another BIG project coming down the pipeline (which I can’t wait to share details about), I haven’t had 5 minutes to sit. No worries though, I’ll sit when I’m old, ha.

So my last post was all about the beginning steps of prepping & sanding a piece of wood furniture. The next step, which is what this post is dedicated to, is priming. Primer is SO important! I can not stress enough that primer is a must when painting something. anything. YOU NEED PRIMER.

Why Prime.

Whether a room or a piece of furniture, paint is truly one of the easiest & most affordable ways to update and/or change the look of something. It’s amazing what a fresh coat of paint can do to a wall or a surface. I read once, “Donâ€™t expect paint to do a primerâ€™s job”. The purpose of paint is to provide color, but the purpose of primer is to provide the ideal base for the paint to be applied. Without, the result can fall short.

What does Primer Do?

> Blocks Stain Primers are made to block the natural pigments (tannin) of the wood and/or original stain from bleeding through the new paint.

> Hides Color Priming the surface before painting hides / blocks the previous color from showing through. Using a primer will also sometimes eliminate the need for multiple coats (cost savings!)

> Seals the surface Priming before painting seals the surface so the paint doesn’t get soaked in. The prime provides the perfect base for the paint to be applied. Primer also provides the ideal surface for paint to adhere to. Typically with a stained piece of furniture, like my china cabinet, the original surface is glossy which paint wouldn’t adhere to. Adding a primer to a glossy surface will give the provide the ideal underlayment for a beautiful new color. This same technique can be used for tile, glass, vinyl siding, and aluminum – all slick surfaces that wouldn’t be paintable without primer!

Do you recall when I was painting my laminate bookcase? I failed to prime a spot and the paint just bubbled and didn’t stick to the surface. Here’s a picture…

> Lasting Result Without primer, paint could easily chip or scrape off very easily + quickly. Using one (thin) coat of primer + two (typically, maybe more) coats of paint you should have a long lasting, durable result!

The Right Primer.

There are many primers on the market and the decision on the right one for the job can be tricky. When painting over furniture, you want to choose a primer that indicates on the can that it will block the stain and seal the surface. The primer that I chose for this china cabinet makeover was Glidden Gripper because it truly grips to the surface and seals the stain from coming through. It also created the perfect base for the new WILD color I chose.

Applying Primer.

a how-to tutorial on applying primer. Its so easy…

Note: This is the most important tip I can share about priming (told to me by someone – a pro – in the painting world), primer does not need to be applied like paint. A thin coat of primer is fine and actually better than “globbing” it on. Primer does not need to fully cover the surface underneath, meaning you can still have wood showing through. As long as the surface area has a thin coat (one coat), you are set to paint!

When painting a piece of furniture, I always start at one end and make my way across. Why? Paint dries fairly fast and to avoid drips + brush strokes, it’s important to work in small sections and apply thin coats.

Typically I apply the paint to the surface. Then spread it out. Then go back over it with my brush, using light stokes and following the wood grain.

When painting furniture, the piece is typically vertical, so paint could drip. Around the detailed edges and ornate areas, the less paint the better to avoid paint from dripping. And once an area is done, always continue to look back to make sure paint isn’t seeping down.