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Month: August 2012

How-To Paint Laminate Furniture

I recently shared my newly styled bookshelves, but before I added all the colorful books and stylish accessories, I gave the bookcases a much needed makeover.

Since painting the space deep blue, the once faux-wood bookcases got lost in the dark hue of the walls, and they were ready for a transformation. A crisp, fresh coat of white was the perfect solution to make a statement.

I purchased these two bookcases from Walmart about 2 years ago.  Each were around $100 and were not the best of quality (duh, look at the pricetag).  Anyway, they fit the bill at the moment, but recently the shelves started to bow.  Aside from the decision to paint the bookcases, I also needed to make a few updates so they would last a few more years – I’ll get to more on that later in the post.

Before starting the process of painting the laminate, I did a little research on the process and the first article I saw was Lindsay’s post when she transformed her TV cabinet.  It was just what I needed to get me started.

Here’s the bookcase before…

To begin, I gave each bookcase a good sanding with my orbital sander (hands down, my favorite power tool). These bookcases are made of a particle board-like  composite with a faux-wood laminate exterior. It was important NOT to sand too much because otherwise the surface would get ruined (since it’s essentially paper), but at the same time it was important to get them ‘roughed-up’ so the paint would absorb into the surface.

Then the next key step was to prime all the surfaces.  Like usual, I used Kilz Primer which blocks, seals, and preps the surface for the paint to adhere to the surface.  Primer is important, but especially when painting over laminate (as I described above).  Unlike wood, laminate is a smooth, non-porous material, so it really needs something to ‘grab’ on to – primer will do the trick!  It’s suggested that primer takes 7 days to completely dry – you can take that advice if you’d like, but I didn’t (shame, shame on me, I know).  BUT, I did wait about 4 days before painting to really make sure the surface was good-to-go!

My good blogging friend, Diane, recently wrote a post on Gripper Paint.  She uses the Glidden brand (Kilz brand has a similar product), and even though I haven’t tried it, this is another great product to use as a primer.  The name says it all.

Sidetrack Steps…

At this point of the project, I made the decision to make a few much-needed updates to the structure and look of the bookcase.  Instead of moving on to directly painting the bookcase, I decided to replace the shelves and the backing material.

As I mentioned before, the shelves were really bowing – alot – so I took a trip to my hardware store and had a long piece of 2×12 cut into lengths needed for new shelves.

And check out the back of the bookcase…  UGLY!  It was basically paper and when I started to paint the surface, it started warping even more.  Once the decision was made to upgrade the back, I crumbled the paper-backing with one hand…

To fix the backing, I had a thin piece of plywood cut to size.  Then the Mister and I flipped the bookcase onto it’s front and nailed the plywood to the perimeter of the bookcase back. (This step might seem difficult, but please be assured it wasn’t – this was probably one of the easiest steps throughout this project).

Now back on track…

After sanding, priming,and making a few updates, it was time to PAINT!

I used a brush for the corners and a roller for the flat surfaces.  In certain areas, I used a brush first, then went over the same surface with the roller to achieve a smooth, stroke-less surface. Here’s the bookcase with the first coat of paint…

Here’s a tip.  If the surface isn’t sanded or not sanded enough, then the paint will bubble (because it’s not adhering to the surface).  Check this out…

This is a No-No!

I’ll be honest, these bookcases took about 3-4 coats until I felt they were fully covered. And even after they were dry to the surface, I didn’t put anything on the shelves for at least a week.  Paint takes about 30 days to fully cure and with the heavy books and accessories sitting on them, the last thing I would want would be to have them ruined or peel!

And this is the result…

So refreshing!  Then it was time to add the books and accessories.

And here’s a peak at how the bookcases look fully styled with books and accessories.  You can check out more by viewing this post.

Painting laminate wasn’t difficult, but I did find it more time consuming than painting wood.  To sum it up, the most important steps are to sand and prime all the surfaces before painting.  If you were to skip the 2 steps, your paint would have nothing to adhere to and would most likely peel right off.  Going into this project, I wasn’t sure of the result and if the paint would even stay since the surface was so smooth, but with the right preparation, I was thrilled with the outcome.

Styling a Bookcase

I’ve mentioned here and there that I’ve been working on revamping my faux-stained laminate bookcases, and I can officially say they are done & styled. Take a look…

I LOVE a well-styled bookcase!  A good mix of books, accessories, and personal momentos really brings life and character to a bookcase.

When we moved into our home a couple years ago, I was in a wood-tone state-of-mind, and chose these laminate shelves from Walmart for $99/each.  They are not at all of great quality, but at the time they fit the bill.

before pictures…

Since then, I’ve started transitioning to a whiter and lighter aesthetic.  Once the decision was made to paint the front room a dark navy hue, the dark faux-stained bookcases blended in too much with the dark walls.

With the light green walls, they worked, but not so much now.

So…

White bookcases were a must!  Check out the result.

Huge change right?! I have an awesome How-To Paint Laminate tutorial coming soon, but in the meantime, this post is all about How-To Style a Bookcase.

Let’s break it down.

Steps to Styling a Bookcase

1.  Whether it’s a butt-load of books or simply a few, since it is a bookshelf, books are the best items to start with. Mix em’ up by having some vertical and others horizontal. Layer them on top of each other and in different ways on the various shelves. Then…

2. Add the accessories.  Layer accessories in front of the books, on top of the books,  and/or in between the books.

3. Finish with the details.  Add pictures and/or momentos that make your bookcase unique and personal.

You saw the one finished bookcase above, and here is the other…

Want to see a closer view?  Check out these up-close-and-personal shots…

For the smaller paperback books, I layed them horizontally and in 4 piles with two set back in the center.  Having them set back allows for the layering of accessories in front giving depth and an interesting way to view the books.  I also like leaning pictures on the backs of the bookcases to add a pop of color.

Love my desk chair?  You can learn all about it by clicking here.

I often get asked, Where do you find unique accessories to style the shelves?

Finding accessories that fit your style for a bookcase can sometimes be a challenge.  One of my favorite go-to resources for accessories throughout my home is One Kings Lane.  They have such a diverse selection and variety of accessories and furniture!

Starting today, OKL has teamed up with Martha Stewart to offer an eclectic collection of french inspired decor including furnishings, art, rugs, tabletop, etc. The Entertaining en Provence event – an extension of an article in the September issue of Martha Stewart Living – incorporates colors like pale greens, sages, creams and linens – o so yummy

The sale only lasts for 72 hours, so you’ll want to click on over and check out what Ms. Martha has pulled together.  If you aren’t a member of OKL, no problem – it’s FREE to sign up!

Here’s a sneak peak at a few of the fab items that you’ll see at the One Kings Lane sale

Be sure to click over because you might even see some similar accessories to what I used for my bookcase display.

Here’s one more peak of my newly styled bookcases – I know you can’t get enough, hehe.

and…

What do you display on your bookshelves?  Do you find it difficult to know where to begin and what to display? Where do you find accessories?  Are you a One Kings Lane fan?

Thanks to One Kings Lane for sponsoring today’s post on styling.

My First Annie Sloan Experience

Yes, using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is an experience!

If you have no idea what I’m talking about and/or have no idea who Annie Sloan is, no worries, just keep on reading.  If you do know about ASCP, stick around and see if you’ve had a similar experience (I’d love to hear your thoughts).

I shared the result of my first Annie Sloan paint project yesterday and the response was unbelievable.  Thank you ALL for your kind comments – I was blown away by your kindness!  If you missed the reveal, I revamped and reupholstered a side chair for my desk.  Before the reupholstery could begin though, I painted the chair frame with my newly purchased Annie Sloan Chalk Paint.  I had never used this paint before and it was quite an experience.  I shared a little about it yesterday, but wanted to go more in-depth with a dedicated post.  So here we go…

I’ll start off by saying, I had some issues and jumped a few hurdles, but got through it. (but keep reading please…)

Many of my blogger friends have used the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and the results are amazing. One that really sticks out in my mind is Erin’s table and it’s probably because of the vibrant orange color with the antique dark wax.  This piece turned out amazing and after reading her post and seeing her pictures, I was sold and had to place my order.

In the meantime, I also (virtually) met Trish of The Purple Painted Lady and saw this piece which blew me away. Trish and I corresponded back and forth a few times.  She gave me amazing tips and techniques on using the paint and wax, so I thought I was on my way.

I ordered a quart of the French Linen color, which seemed similar to the taupe hue that can be seen throughout my home, and a can of the clear wax.  My shipment arrived a few days later and an anxiety came over me.  After ALL the many DIY projects that I’ve taken on, I was actually nervous to paint.  Yes, paint.  How could I be nervous??  I think I hyped up the idea of this magical formula so much that my gung-ho attitude went out the door.  And for me, when I’m nervous, things go wrong.  Does that happen to you?

I started off as I was instructed to (by Trish) and turn the can upside down for at least 60 seconds.  Basically, all the good stuff settles to the bottom and needs to be well mixed around. Of course, shake and stir as well.

Then I started painting.  Yup, I started painting WITHOUT stripping, sanding, or priming the existing wood.  That’s the beauty of chalk paint.  It’s designed to adhere to most any surface including wood, concrete, vinyl, and even bathtubs (I learned that from Trish too).  Plus it provides 50% more coverage compared to latex, so the 1 quart can goes a LONG WAY – for this chair, I hardly used any paint.

So coat 1 went on just like usual. Using my favorite Purdy brush, I applied a light coat of this gorgeous color.

Then coat 2.

Two coats was just enough for most areas, but a few spots need three.

Done.  Trish stressed that it wasn’t good to paint in the heat, but I was just fine since I was indoors, in the A/C – ideal conditions!

I wasn’t sure what the result of the chalk paint would be.  I was guessing it would be chalky (obviously), but it’s not.  Honestly, if I didn’t know it was chalk paint, I would think the paint was simply a latex… Until it dries.  The finish on the dried chalk paint is very flat and dull.  You can tell it is in need of something for a top coat.  What is that something?  Well, wax.

Why Use Wax?

Chalk Paint™ is very porous and the wax will penetrate the paint and literally fuse with it making it very strong. Waxing the paint provides protection. Chalk Paint™ in nature- is a very flat chalky finish and over time could be effected by oils from your skin, stains from beverages, dirty fingertips. They can permanently stain the paint. The wax finish is what seals and protects your piece. – The Purple Painted Lady

A day later, I jumped in and started the wax process.  I’ve painted before, but have never applied wax.  Not even car wax, so I was definitely entering unchartered territories.  Again, I was nervous, but sucked it up and followed the steps (once again stated by Trish).

The wax is smooth, kind of like Crisco, and should be applied in “very thin, uniform coats”.

Remember this – VERY THIN, UNIFORM COATS

This is the basic process –

  1. Start by taking a spoonful of wax.
  2. Put it on a paper plate.
  3. Dip the end bristles of your brush* into the wax.
  4. Apply the wax in the same direction as the painted brush strokes

* The brush you choose is important.  It CAN’T be a new brush and really should be a specific wax brush.  I used a well-worn brush that was leftover from my fence project.  I really should have used a true wax brush, but being the frugal gal that I am, decided not to get it with my purchase (probably a mistake). As I always preach suggest, the right tools make the job much easier.  I guess I haven’t learned my own lesson yet…

FYI – These instructions are for applying clear wax only, not the dark wax.  That has a whole set of different directions that I haven’t even looked at yet.

Trish at The Purple Painted Lady has an AMAZING Q + A on her website and every issue / problem that you may run into is on there.  She gives a very thorough step-by-step of how to apply the wax, so it’s a MUST READ!

But of course, I ran into an issue.  Here goes.  I applied the wax, waited a few hours, but it still was tacky.  I waited another 24 hours, but it was STILL tacky.  What did I do wrong?  I immediately sent an email to Trish and this was the subject line: Need HELP with wax! (that should get her attention, right?)

Like always, I heard back from her right away with a thorough explanation and she directed me right to her Q+A page.  I scrolled down and found my answer.

Thankfully “my issue” is one of the most common… too much wax!  I went over the wax with a cloth and a few days later, it was all dry and smooth to the touch.

Boy, what an experience, but I’m glad I stuck with it and learned from my mistakes. Trying something new always has it’s hurdles, but once you get over them, it’s often smooth sailing.  I’m thrilled with the result of my newly reupholstered chair and every time I look at it, I have a chuckle about the days when I wanted to pull my hair out figuring out what I did wrong.

And here’s the finished result.

I’ve received quite a few questions on, “Is the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint worth the cost?”.  It’s difficult to say depending on the look and style piece you want to achieve. With the bonus of no stripping, sanding, or priming, plus how much this paint covers compared to latex paint, it’s worth to give it a try!  You may just fall in love…

Since I’m still a novice ASCP user,  I’d LOVE to hear about your experiences with this magical formula. What issues have you had if any and how have you overcome them?  Do you love the paint or don’t think it’s worth the cost?  Please Share!

If you want to check out my reupholstery tutorial, click here.  And if you’re interested in learning alot more about how to apply the chalk paint and wax, click here to visit Trish’s website.

DIY: Reupholstered Side Chair

I’ve always had the desire to attempt the process of reupholstering a chair.  Quite a few of my blogger friends did and the results were amazing, but I was still reluctant – Could I really do it? 

After reading this post, for some reason, “it” clicked and I was on-board.  My mission of finding a chair had started.  I needed something new anyway for my desk since I’ve been using this chair which has no seat padding and gets uncomfortable after a while. It took some time, but one day when on a thrifting adventure with my mom, I spotted it and bells started to ring.

Let me start off by saying, I have no upholstery skills, so this is something that absolutely ANYONE can do.  If I can do it, so can you!  Don’t get me wrong, there were quite a few times that I wanted to give up, but I kept chug, chug, chugging along and I’m thrilled with the results of a comfortable, stylish, and inexpensive desk chair.

It all started off here…

I began by removing the fabric from the back of the chair.  The old fabric was secured with ALOT of staples (which brought back memories of the carpet on the stairs), so using plyers I (and the mister) removed each and every one.  It took a while and part of the surrounding wood on the chair got slightly damaged, but it ended up being fine since the new fabric and trim covered it later.

The seat upholstery I left since it was in fine condition and the new fabric would cover right over.

Once the fabric was stripped down, it was time to give this chair a paint makeover.  Up until this point, I had never before tried the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and thought this would be the perfect piece.  Because of the ASCP formula, there is no need to sand before painting and I was ALL FOR THAT! Holla…

I had some hurdles to overcome with the paint and wax, but all in all, I was happy with the result.  My experience with the paint is a story in itself, which you’ll have to wait for later this week. (Click HERE to read about My First Annie Sloan Experience)

Anyway, here is me painting the chair…

Two coats later, I then added the clear wax as top coat.

Once that was done and dry (remember, I’ll chat more about my ASCP experience later this week), the reupholstery work began.  I was psyched to start this part of the project.  I chose a brown and white chevron pattern for the back panel, along with a burnt orange and white patterned fabric for the seat and back. The chevron fabric I had leftover from a pillow and table runner, while the orange fabric is a panel that I purchased from Target to use for this project and some new pillows (that I have yet to make – story of my life).

I started with the chevron fabric first and stapled it to the inside of the wood trim surround in place of where the previous fabric was. (this is a few from the front of the chair)

Once the fabric was stapled all around, this is how it looked from the back…

Then it was time to work on the seat and back reupholstery.  I started with the back.  I added back the original foam insert that was previously used, stapled all the way around, and finished by trimming the leftover fabric with scissors.

Then I used the same steps for the seat.

Once I exhausted out my staple gun, this was the result…

Eek! Those edges don’t look good.  BUT WAIT… here’s how I fixed it.

Trim!

Trim is the key to novice upholstery perfection!  Using a good ole’ hot glue gun, I added the trim surround to cover all the ragged edges of where I used the scissor to trim the fabric.

And minutes later, this was the result.

Beauty, right?

I am thrilled with the final upholstery project and glad that through some tough parts (mostly the removal of the old staples and fabric), I stuck with it.  This chair really gives such a fun flair to my office area. The chair is temporarily in this spot while my front room / office space is under remodel.

And here’s me working away (thanks to my 6 yr. old for snapping this shot) …

Have you ever reupholstered a piece of furniture?  Did you find the first time easier or more difficult than you thought? What DIY projects have you been working on lately?

Kitchen Makeover Update: One Year Later

One of the biggest projects to date that I tackled was my kitchen makeover.  I can’t believe it’s been a year, but this time last Summer, I was finishing up the final details and sharing it with you.

Since that time, I’ve been flooded with questions (and many kind comments – thank you), and thought a One-Year-Followup post including answers + an update a year later would be interesting and helpful for those thinking of tackling something similar.

There were alot of details and updates that went into the entire Kitchen Makeover, resulting in quite a few posts to explain all the steps.
Here they are:

Since this is a followup post, let’s start with some of the reader questions that I received related to…

painting the cabinets

From Shani:
it is beautifully done! i painted my cabinets in my previous house, and found that if i hit the cabinets hard (with a pot handle etc) that the paint chipped..do you find that to be the case? great job!

From Kyra:
Did you use primer on all of the cabinets ? I would think you would want to use primer everywhere? DId you sand the cabinets first? You don’t mention it but I would think you’d want to.

From Julie:
Looks great!!! Did you not use a primer on these..or did you tint the primer? Also did you sand these first?How is the paint holding up?

I absolutely used Primer and wouldn’t do any project like this, without! Primer is key to a great finish and a long-lasting result.  To start off, I gave the cabinets a light sanding, then applied one coat of Kilz Primer. When using the Kilz Primer, sanding isn’t really needed, but I did it anyway to remove the sheen from the cabinet face.  Plus the Kilz Primer is great for blocking the wood grain and stain from showing through.

Once dry about 24 hours later (the paint can says wait 7 days for it to fully cure, but I didn’t), I applied 2 coats (in some areas 3 coats) of Benjamin Moore Aura Paint. Their Aura paint is a primer + paint in one, but I still felt that it was important to use the Kilz primer first.

 

From Stachia:
What color and brand of paint did you use for your kitchen cabinets?

The paint color that I used for the cabinets was Benjamin Moore Berkshire Beige in a semi-gloss finish using their Aura Paint line (primer and paint in one).  A semi-gloss finish is important to use on cabinetry and/or furniture so the surface can easily be cleaned and/or wiped off.

updating the countertops

From Amy:
Just one question, does the countertop have bumps, or does it just appear that way in the photo?

My Response:
With the Rust-Oleum kit, the countertop is slightly bumpy to imitate the look of a natural stone surface. It’s not overly bumpy, but also not completely smooth.

From sl:
I would love to do this to my kitchen countertop. Yours look GREAT!!! I am still trying to convince my hubby. Did you put the color chip on the backsplash and edges? Is so was it hard to get them in these spots? Is not, does it look odd without color chips? Thanks for any info you can share.

My Response:
Yes, I did put the chips on the countertop edge and backsplash. With the tool that is provided, it sprays the chips all over and will cover the vertical surfaces. If there are spots that don’t get covered, you can throw chips on them, which will adhere because the adhesive is very sticky. All surfaces of the counter, absolutely needed to be covered with the chips or you won’t achieve the quality needed to hold up.

From Marti:
Could you please elaborate on your comment that the chips must cover all areas or the quality needed to hold up won’t be achieved. Do you mean that the chips facilitate the hardening process, and without them, full hardening won’t occur? Also, did you notice any odor at any stage in the process? I have an allergy to paint. Many thanks.

My Response:
When you are at the point of adding the “chips”, you want cover the entire countertop surface – the more, the better. After the chips are added, the next day you put on the sealer (top protective coat). If the countertop is not covered enough with the chips, your old countertop color will show through. The chips DO NOT facilitate the hardening process, but the chips are essentially the color that changes the countertop. So the first coat is the glue, second is the chips a.k.a. “color”, and the last coat is the protective seal. There was very little odor throughout the process. I was very worried about this with having two young kids, but it really wasn’t an issue. Honestly, we ended up going out for meals during the process since the kitchen was OFF LIMITS!

From Kristin:
Hi there! You mentioned the peeling of the top coat when the tape isn’t properly removed. We just did these countertops this weekend and had one spot where it did that. What did you use to fix the area??? On another note I would totally agree that the difficulty level is at a 2. It was SO easy and the instructions were great. The scoring of the tape, though, really is vital.

My Response:
If part of the countertop peels after you’ve applied the “chips” and sealer,  the instructions say to go through the entire process again for that specific spot.

Overall the process of the Rustoleum Transformations Kit was not difficult and the instructions were very thorough.  Included is a comprehensive video that is a must to watch! We took the weekend to work on the project, but it didn’t take all day.  Also, thankfully there wasn’t ANY ODOR – big checkmark 😉

I received quite a few questions and comments about the Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations Kit.  I have not had the pleasure of using the product, so I really can’t comment, BUT some readers that used the white or lighter colors had a bad experience with it yellowing.  Has this happened to you?

tiling over laminate

I guess my tutorial on this part of the makeover was easy to follow (or no one liked it – hehe) because I didn’t receive one single question.  Anyway, with tiling over the 3″ high laminate backsplash, the kitchen really has a custom and unique look.  Often seen in typical kitchens, is a 3″ high backsplash to match the countertop which is sealed at the joint so no water or liquid will leak behind the base cabinets.  Great concept, but very ordinary and not really interesting.  Because we were “painting” over our existing countertops, there was no way to remove the laminate backsplash, so I just tiled right over it!  It was easy and there was nothing different or special than tiling any other surface.

adding decorative brackets

By introducing the decorative brackets, the kitchen has a sophisticated aesthetic with interesting architectural details.  Before, there was one long row of cabinets, but now the brackets add an unexpected element.

Update One Year Later

Now that I’ve highlighted a few of the popular questions from the makeover, it’s time for me to share some images and updates a year later.

Thankfully the cabinets have REALLY held up well over the past year.  We’re a family of four, with two young kids, so the kitchen is used ALOT!  It has received so much wear and tear, but you wouldn’t know it by looking at the cabinets.

Unfortunately, I wish I could say that about the countertop.  Within the first few weeks of using the Transformations Kit, the newly “painted” surface started to scratch, show spots and wear.  That being said, I am still happy with the overall look and how much the kitchen changed by using the Rustoleum product.  I’m often asked, “Is the product worth it?  Is it more of a temporary fix?”… well that’s difficult to answer.  It comes down to your budget and how long you plan on living with the kitchen.  The product is around $250-$300 (the last time I saw it at HD or Lowes), which is pricey, but at the same time we didn’t want to invest in a more expensive countertop.  Honestly, looking back knowing the imperfections today, I’m still glad we chose this product.  A bigger, more $$$ kitchen makeover might be ahead of us in 3-5+ years and until then, the updates we made are just fine (and actually more than fine). So my roundabout answer is, if you have the money and plan on keeping the countertops for 5-10+ years, go with another surface, but if you’re on a budget and/or want a quick and on-budget solution, the Rustoleum Transformations Kit is a great idea.

Here are some images of the kitchen that I just took yesterday.

I’d like to stress that even though I’m an in-real-life designer, my home is not staged and looks like most everyone elses.  The kitchen is often the most messiest place in our home and before cleaning it up to shoot some pics, this is what it looked like…

You can see the multiple DIY projects that I’m in the midst of.

Does your kitchen look like this ever?

Thankfully a few minutes later I got it all cleaned up and this is what it looks like a year after the makeover…

These are some of the scratches and wear marks on the countertop.

And this is a stain (completely my fault) where I dropped super glue.

And like I said, the cabinets have held up GREAT, but there are touch-ups that will be needed here and there.  For instance, the shelves on the open cabinet get alot of wear multiple times a day when I take out and put back the baskets.

But there really is no reason to complain, because this Benjamin Moore paint was easy to apply and has held up SO well.

These pictures were just taken yesterday and I haven’t made any paint touch ups since the day they were painted a year ago.

And this quote – a favorite of mine -sits on the window sill by the kitchen sink and keeps me in check many moments throughout the day.

So that’s the makeover update one year later.

Are there questions that you have that I haven’t answered?  If so, Ask Me, and I’ll add them to the post.