It’s been a few weeks and lots of progress has been made on the master bathroom renovation!
Last I left off, I shared details on the demo (which we hired a contractor to do) + the steps to prep the space for tile. Once that part of the job was complete, it was my turn to step in. Thankfully I’ve tiled before so there wasn’t too much of a learning curve, but I knew tiling 3 large walls from floor to ceiling would be time consuming…
And it was! BUT… it’s so worth it. Check out where I left you last time…
…And what the bathroom looks like now…
Woah! Big Difference!!
Once the tub was removed removal and the new shower pan + cement board walls were installed, it was time to tile! To start, I chose the center point of the shower space – the back wall – and worked my way out and around the room using a 4″ x 12″ tile. I marked out a level line at the base of the tile so the tile would be as plumb as possible.
It’s important for the first row to be about 1/8 – 1/4″ above the shower (same for a tub deck) – I used shims so the tile would not slide down. Instead of filling the 1/8″ gap with typical grout (which could crack), I used an expandable caulk once the tile was completely installed.
I continued my way around the base of the shower pan and installed the tile on the plumb line. At that point I stopped for the evening (yes, most all of the tiling was installed at night when the kiddos were in bed) to let the first row of tile set.
HELPFUL HINT: Subway tile is the only tile that has a slight bevel, so there is no need to add a spacing/ joint between tiles. If you added a joint (using a spacer), the joints would be very large. The ‘pro’ for using subway tile is they stack one on top of the other. The ‘con’ for using subway tile is you have no wiggle room. If a tile is off (when using spacers), you can cheat on the next tile or the next row, but not with subway since every tile butts next to each other.
The next evening I was back to work installing one tile at a time… row by row as I made my way around the shower.