I love a quick, wham bam thank you ma’ma kinda DIY project! Yes, I love the gratification of a big ole’ DIY challenge that takes brains + braun (hello honeycomb shelves), but at the same time something simple is just as satisfying (& takes a whole lot less time).
Now that our baby girl has arrivedand I have no free time to do anything, my mind is all for easy + fast… I’m in git er’ done mode. I could never give up DIYing, even if I had 8 kids (which will never happen), so instead of tackling something difficult & timely, I’m going for simple. My latest & greatest – Color Block Hanging Succulents…
Just to be honest and not have you think I am wonder woman, I worked on this project before the baby arrived, then snapped the final pictures for the post yesterday. Over the last few days, I really have tried to just sit back, rest, and relax – well for the most part.
So on to this really cool & super easy creation… When I was shopping at Lowe’s for supplies for a few projects last month, I had to hit the succulent / plant section. Succulents are my favorite this time of year – Spring & Summer – and I love planting smaller and larger sized succulents in pots, cups, or anything that is container-like. Last years Spring mantel is a great example of a succulent display using all different style containers.
While loading up on different sized succulents at Lowe’s, I found a a pre-made wicker-style hanging basket filled with about 4 different style succulents. How much better does it get than already made?!
I immediately the hanging baskets would look great in the kitchen at the large window that overlooks the backyard. I knew I would enjoy them immensely while doing dishes at the sink or prepping dinner.
But of course I had to jazz them up…
I first figured out where the baskets would best be placed to hang from the ceiling. I made a mark, installed an anchor, then a hook.
Here comes the easy DIY idea to customize and make them one-of-a-kind, unique pieces.
Using paint that I had on-hand (I had the hardest time choosing the color) and a firm crafting brush, I painted the bottom 1/3 of the wicker / stick basket. In the end I chose to use plain white and a popping citron green hue (Valspar Olive Tree, which matches the front door).
I could have used tape to make sure the line was straight around, but instead I simply “eyed it”. I added the paint on thick so it got into all the nooks & crannies.
Within minutes, I made my way around the entire edge and to dry, I hung them by the hooks. And that’s it. Down & Dirty easy DIY!
Here’s the result…
So fun, right?! I love how they look and in just 2 weeks they have grown a lot. I guess they love the light that filtrates through the large window.
Gosh, I just can not get enough of succulents!
Do you love easy DIY creations? Would you rather start projects from scratch or do you like ‘jazzing’ up something pre-made?
Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!
Even though we veered away from the original design for the revamped shared kids space, my son had his heart set on honeycomb shelves after I showed him the Land of Nod style. And since this mama can’t let her boy down, I had to pull through.
But instead of buying, what did I do? DIYed them, of course. After a little research & this post by A Beautiful Mess, I was confident to move forward.
Not only are these honeycomb / hexagon shelves functional, the whole ensemble is like a piece of art. And instead of painting the shelves a color or staining them a traditional wood finish, I chose an interesting blue hue which is in-trend and spot on with the other tones that I’ve introduced into the room.
Take a look…
The entire shelf composition runs the length of the twin bed, which is about 80″ long, and makes the entire wall truly come alive. This “installation” also parallels with my Lowe’s Creative challenge project for this month which focuses on introducing the submerged color trend of watery, cool blue hues into a project. With the size + interesting finish, this project is by far one of my favorites!
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Before we move forward, it has to be said that this project was a big challenge, but the bigger the venture, the better the result. I don’t often do large-scale woodworking projects and at times I thought it was going to be a big F-A-I-L, but in the end the honeycomb shelves MAKE THE ROOM. Take Away? Don’t be afraid to challenge yourself. Push through because in the end, it’ll be worth it!
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Like usual, before starting a larger scale project, I sketched out my idea and figured out the supplies I needed. This was the first sketch…
And then the shelves ended up evolving into this layout instead so not all of the shelves are actually attached…
Supplies I used:
(7) 1″ x 6″ x 6′ long pieces of wood – each shelf took approximately (1) board
1-1/2″ wood screws
1-1/2″ corner brackets
Plastic toggle anchors
Stain or Paint – depending on how you want to finish the shelf surface
Other supplies: miter saw, tape measure, drill, sander, level, pencil
To save on time, I often have my wood cut while at shopping at Lowe’s, but for this project, I cut it at home because of the quantity needed + the angles.
Here are the steps I took:
1. I set the miter saw to 30 degrees and never touched the saw again for the entire project. This angle is crucial so each of the 6 pieces will make the perfect hexagon shape. I approximated that I wanted each finished shelf to be an overall dimension of about 14″ x 14″, and chose the length of 7″ for the long side of each piece.
After marking the wood with my tape measure + pencil, I made the first cut using the miter saw. Then I flipped the piece of wood over to make the second angled cut.
This is what the first piece looked like when cut.
Then I cut about 42 more…
2. Before taking the next steps of attaching each piece to make the shelves, I layed all the pieces out to see how they’d actually go together.
3. Then we were ready to chug forward and attach these bad boys…
The first hexagon box was created using 6 pieces and all the angles faced each other. It’s best to stand them up on their sides, so the floor acts like the wall. The Mister (who was a huge part of this project as well) and I actually moved from the carpet to a flat, hard surface so the pieces would lay flat. The carpet was too cushy.
TIP: You must use wood screws for this project. We started out with screws, but it wasn’t working right (because we didn’t pre-drill), then changed over to using nails. BIG MISTAKE.
Once you have the angled wood pieces in position, first pre-drill the holes, then drill in the wood screws. If you don’t pre-drill the holes, the wood will probably split, which is what happened to us atfirst. Using a nail won’t work because they’ll pull out and the overall shelf won’t be stable / sturdy. Believe me, these are all lessons we learned along the way!
4. When the first box is complete, you can either be done or add on to it to create a multi-honeycomb shelf like ours. If you continue adding on to the first hexagon, you’ll use one side of the original hexagon to create the second hexagon. This time though, the cut angles won’t touch each other, but instead overlap. I’ll be honest, it does get tricky at this point and the shelves become a big jigsaw puzzle. We ended up with (1) 3 box shelf, (1) 2 box shelf, and (1) stand alone shelf.
Once all the shelves were screwed together, we were ready for the next steps… finish the surface + install.
It took me some time to determine how I wanted to finish the shelves. At first I was going to paint them, but then steered away because I wanted to see the wood grain shine through. That meant stain. But, what stain? In the end, I chose a gray / blue water-based stain by Minwax. The submerged color seemed perfect with the other hues in the room and was ideal with what’s on-trend right now.
5. First, I gave the edges and all the surfaces a good sanding with my orbital sander. Then using a rag, I applied the wood stain and almost instantly wiped it away so very little actually soaked into the wood. Because of this, the drying time was very quick.
6. About a day later, the shelves were ready to install. I first attached the metal angle brackets to the shelves. Then I determined the height + positioning of where the shelves would be hung.
Next, the Mister + I marked the holes through the brackets and pre-drilled the holes into the wall. As with hanging anything, I always love using plastic toggle drywall anchors (I shared a pic recently on Instagram).
Once the anchors were in each hole, we repositioned the shelves in place and screwed them in using a drill + screw. It’s key to use a level as well so the shelf doesn’t get installed crooked!
At this point, the shelves were almost done…
I loved the look of the blue shelves against the lighter gray walls, but I still wanted to make them pop. To do so, I chose to paint the front edge of the shelves a white color which matches the moulding throughout the room. Two coats later with a small, flat brush did the trick.
Lastly, so the metal brackets didn’t stand out so much, I painted those as well using the wall paint color.
These shelves are perfect to fill with books, toys in containers, and any fun thing(s) to display.
And here is a pretty pinnable picture if you want to remember this project for a later date…
So what do you think?
Do you like the honeycomb / hexagon look? Have you incorporated this new trend into your home? What has been your most difficult DIY project endeavour?
To gather even more unique, fun, and creative ideas for your indoor and outdoor Spring spaces, I would definitely suggest downloading the Lowe’s Creative Ideas app on your iphone and/or ipad. I’m always checking out the FREE app for great seasonal + do-it-yourself inspiration.
Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!
OK, so let me start off by saying, THIS. IS. MY. FAVORITE. FURNITURE. TRANSFORMATION. yet
And the kicker is, I have a lot of furniture purging planned for the Spring and this desk was on the to-go list. Can you believe I was going to sell this beauty?!
Here’s the before and after + a few closeup shots. I’ll share the details of the transformation on the other side…
Pretty crazy that it’s the same piece, right?! And I am in love with the color.
So this month’s Lowe’s challenge for the Creative Team was to create / transform something using make your own chalk finish paint. Since I’m in the midst of my master bedroom makeover and this desk was about to go curbside, I thought it was the perfect opportunity to jazz it up. If the result wasn’t right, nothing lost, nothing gained.
The desk was purchased years ago from the Bombay company (during my dark-furniture-all-over days) and it’s served it’s purpose well, but I was ready to say adios.
The making of my own chalk paint made me a bit nervous, since I’ve only used the premade mix by Annie Sloan and that took a bit of getting used to (more for the wax application than the actual paint). But, I decided to jump right in.
Here are the supplies I used:
Latex flat paint (I used Valspar Signature latex)
Plaster of Paris
Stir sticks
Plastic bucket
Water (cool, not warm)
Measuring Cup ( do not reuse for food)
Sealer – wax or polyurthetane
Here is the formula I used:
In a mixing cup, add 1 cup of latex paint
Then add 1/3 cup Plaster of Paris + 1/3 cup cold water
Mix all together until the Plaster of Paris is fully dissolved
The mix will make enough chalk paint to apply about one coat to an average-sized 6 drawer dresser. I ended up using only 1/4 of the mix and apply 2-3 coats, so it makes a lot. Chalk paint goes a lot further than typical paint.
Once the formula was mixed, I was ready to paint!
It’s important not to have too much paint on the brush, especially when painting furniture. It’s better to apply thinner coats. When applying too much paint at once, drips and runs could develop in the corners and crevices of the furniture.
If that happens, no worries. Get as much paint off the brush as possible and drag out the “puddled” paint so it thins out and covers more of the furniture surface.
I forgot to mention this neat tid-bit about the desk… it actually opens up to a writing surface.
The difficult part was deciding where to start and stop the paint because I did not want to paint the inside – too difficult.
In the end, I chose a start and stop point for where the paint would go. At first I was only going to paint the legs, but wasn’t thrilled with the look. Here is a peak…
painting on the counter is so much easier than on the floor!
So in the end, I decided to paint the top as well, leaving only the line of the desk that opens, the original stained finished. It actually makes for a more interesting piece – well, I think.
Here’s the top with one coat of chalk finish paint.
2 coats later (3 in some spots), the desk was complete…
And ready to display in my room…
I sealed the entire desk with wax that I had on-hand. Others that have used their own chalk finish paint have used clear finishing wax (Lowes link) or polyurethane.
If you want to read more on applying wax, head over to this post…
The revamped desk fits perfectly next to my existing dresser with a new gallery wall above (more details on that coming soon – I’m still finishing it up)
The chair wasanother furniture transformation from a few years ago and I just recently added a new cushion using black and white striped fabric from The Online Fabric Store. The furry looking throw draped over the chair back is actually fabric that I plan on making some fun pillows with.
Check out what this space looked like before…
BIG DIFFERENCE!
Let me show you a few more ‘after’ shots…
What do you think?
What’s your favorite part of my desk? The new color? The lines of the desk? Or the ‘secret’ compartment of the writing desk? For me, it’s all fun, but I think I love the paint color the best. By the way, the color is Benjamin Moore Martini Olive. Lowe’s color matched it for me and used their Valspar Signature Latex paint.
My thoughts on making my own Chalk Finish Paint.
I really like it! Comparing it to other chalk finish paints, it is very similar and obviously the cost is a lot less AND you can make any color you’d like. With other chalk finish paints there are only about 30-40 different colors to choose from. When making your own, your color choices are limitless. The cost is also significantly less because the Plaster of Paris is about $6 and a quart of paint is about $15-20. Since only one cup is needed, a sample pod / tester most likely would have been enough for this project. Also, I could have used a latex color that I already had on hand (in my stash). Comparing the application process, it’s very similar and the finish result is about the same. A dull, chalky (but not grainy) finish is what you will get. Waxing is important when using any chalk finish paint because it seals the color and finish. I’ve also heard of people using polyurethane as a sealer, but I have never tried that.
Why chalk finish paint?
I feel the advantage of using chalk finish paint is the elimination of sanding, prepping, and priming the existing wood. When using chalk finish paint, you can simply start the painting process directly over the stained or painted finish. *If a piece of furniture has a hi-gloss, then I would recommend sanding and possibly priming first so you have a thorough base to paint.
I hope you enjoyed my adventure of making my own chalk finish paint. I love trying out new things and this is a winner! Have you used chalk finish paint? Have you made your own or have you used a premade mix? Would you try this on a piece of furniture?
To gather even more unique, fun, and creative ideas for your indoor and outdoor Winter spaces, I would definitely suggest downloading the Lowe’s Creative Ideas app on your iphone and/or ipad. I’m always checking out the FREE app for great seasonal + do-it-yourself inspiration. And even better, this Pallet Christmas Countdown creation will be featured in the upcoming Winter guide – how cool, right?!
Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!
Happy Monday! I was feeling a bit under the weather last week which is why the blog and my other favorite places to share + converse on the ‘net’ – IG, FB, etc – were quiet. I’m still not feeling 100%, but am excited to share something I’ve been working on lately… getting my kitchen organized.
For me, organization is a never ending battle. I never feel like everything completely has a home, but I’ve accepted that and continually try to work towards creating a more efficient, more organized home.
When Lowe’s put to me to the challenge this month to tackle the kitchen, I knew it was a win-win. To start off, I took a step back to analyze how the space could be more organized and user-friendly for cooking and storage. I made a few moves of pots and pans, but what I really wanted to put-to-good-use was the insides of the kitchen cabinets. All that vertical space going unused? The ideas started to flow…
My kitchen isn’t small, but it isn’t huge either. With no pantry or extra storage for food, I’m always thinking about how to best store the food / “pantry items” in the cabinets. For the most part, we eat real food / very little processed food. That means no snacks that have to be stored for a long period of time because the food I buy has little “shelf time”. Good for me, that the food we buy takes up less shelf area. Bad for me, I go food shopping a lot.
Anyway, there is one large cabinet that all the food is stored in. It’s a large cabinet at about 30″ wide with (2) doors. Take a look…
don’t you just love peaking into other peoples cabinets??? What are they eating? What do they buy? We use a lot of coconut oil – 3 jars right there in front.
Great change, right?! Nothing from this space had to go, but instead everything was reorganized to be easier to get at in an instant.
Let me show you a bit more of what I did…
On the inside of the left cabinet, I lined the inset panel with stylish geometric patterned contact paper. Similar to what I did for my TV cabinet back in the Summer. I purchased the roll of contact paper at TJ Maxx for about $5 – what a great score.
Once I aligned the contact paper on the cabinet and pulled off the backing, I used a straight edge to trim the excess.
Once the contact paper was adhered, it was time to dress it up.
Before my interior cabinet updo, I never had a great place for spice storage, so that was a major need on my list. I looked around for pre-made styles, but nothing fit the bill just right, so I made my own. I’ll show you more on that in an upcoming tutorial, but this is the result…
At the top of the interior of the cabinet, I added a half round piece of trim, which I then added metal screw-in hooks to.
I attached the half round piece of trim + the newly made wood spice holders using a very very very strong adhesive – Loctite Epoxy Instant Mix. Basically it’s two formulas that mix together and provide a major adhesive mixture. DO NOT TOUCH IT. I carefully applied the mixture to the back of the trim and spice holder, then placed it on the interior of the cabinet. I held it in place for about 3-5 minutes until it was completely adhered to the surface. I will be honest, the wood started to slide a few times, but I was close by and slid it back into place. There are other epoxy mixtures that dry even quicker – 1 minute of less.
It really is the perfect spot to hang many of the kitchen utensils. Here’s the result…
Heading over to the other cabinet, the right side, I added a decorative magnetic metal sheet that I found at Lowe’s and adhered it to the inset panel with 3M 77 Multipurpose Adhesive. I sprayed the adhesive outside on a towel and then ran brought it indoors and positioned it. All went to plan and my fingers only stuck together a little, phew…
Having the magnetic sheet on the inside of the cabinet door has been GREAT! This large vertical spot is great to keep my grocery list, to do’s with the kids, and of course our random chinese fortunes…
For the interior of the cabinets, I took everything out and simply organized it all. Well, it wasn’t simple, but it sure was worth it! For things that could be grouped – like snacks, baking supplies, medicines, teas, etc. – I added bins and labeled them with washi tape. So easy. The bins are from ClosetMaid available at Target and they are leftovers from when I reorganized the kids rooms. They are the ideal size for a typical kitchen cabinet.
For the rest of the food items, I grouped them and organized them as I saw best for how / when I would use them. Really no rhyme or reason…
On to the other large cabinet, the space that holds ALL the dishes. Another material that I thought would be extra helpful in staying organized in the kitchen was cork. I purchased a roll of cork and double layered it, then added it to the inside panel of the cabinet interior, again using the 3M Multipurpose Adhesive.
This is such a great spot for the school calendar, plus random coupons, and reminders. I also use the cork board when following a recipe. I pin it on the board and it’s right in front ready to follow as I’m prepping.
Also on this inside cabinet, I added another half round trim piece for added storage. Right now all I have is a pin with a pen hanging, but it can be used for so many other things. Maybe more kitchen utensils???
Here is the result of my kitchen organization, with all the doors open…
Inside and out, I’m loving this space.
If you haven’t been following along with my blog from the beginning, you might not know that I redid the entire kitchen by hand (total down-and-dirty do it yourself) a little over 2 years ago. It included painting cabinets, painting the countertop, adding backsplash tile, adding decorative brackets,and more. See the before and after by clicking here.
I’m still on a path for more organization, but I feel one step closer to a more efficient space. On to the next room…
I truly love using every square inch of a space. Vertical surfaces often are forgotten as the ideal spot for storage. If you use all the interiors of your kitchen cabinets, how much more could you store?? Ask yourself.
To gather even more unique, fun, and creative ideas for your indoor and outdoor Fall and Winter spaces, I would definitely suggest downloading the Lowe’s Creative Ideas app on the iphone and ipad. I’m always checking out the FREE app for great seasonal + do-it-yourself inspiration.
Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!
I’ll be honest, none of the window curtain panels in my home cost more than $50. Yet all are custom made. Not by an uber-expensive fabricator, but by me.
Store-bought and/or custom-made curtain panels can be very pricey, but the same look (or better) can be achieved by making your own. And guess what, it’s not difficult…
As the calendar turns and another Fall approaches, Lowe’s put The Team to the test this month to create a new window treatment for the home. I was in need (well more like a want) of new window panels for the dining room, so I knew it was the perfect spot to get my craft on.
I desired something simple, so instead of stopping at the curtain aisle for a typical drape, I headed towards the paint aisle and landed in the drop cloth section. confession: I can close my eyes and always find the drop cloth section… I’ve confessed my love for drop cloth before, but honestly it is The. Best. Material. hands down. You can do so much with drop cloth material. It’s not just for painters!!
Anyway, onto the new panels…
1. At Lowes, I chose a 6 ft. x 9 ft. size panel (about $10), then cut it in half to make (2) 3 ft. x 9 ft. pieces.
2. The panels are heavy enough, so I didn’t feel that a lining was needed, so I simply squared off the edges (drop cloth isn’t always perfectly straight), folded over the edges, and sewed all around.
3. Once the panels were complete, it was time to add the decorative leading edge. I chose a navy blue light cotton fabric which was the perfect contrasting complement to the lighter color of the drop cloth material.
And yes, that says $3 for the yard. In all these panels cost about $13!
The color of the fabric is showing royal blue in this pic, but it is more navy in actuality.
4. I layed out the fabric length-wise and cut as many 4″ strips as I could.
again showing royal blue… but it’s not.
5. Then I folded over the two side edges 1/2″ each and ironed the seam flat.
That’s the true color. I swear!
Sidenote: Because of the panel length (a typical panel can be from 84-96″ long), you may need to attach fabric strips to achieve one long strip. I did and before folding over and ironing the seam, I attached two strips and then I had enough length. Once sewn, iron the seam flat.
6. Once the seams were ironed, it was time to attach the decorative edge to the drop cloth panel. I decided to have 1″ of drop cloth exposed, then add the navy blue accent. I first pinned the navy fabric in place and sewed all along the edges using the same color thread.
And that’s it. A high-end look for $13!
The result…
The panels are hung by clip rings and have slight puddle at the bottom. They are the perfect addition for my dining space.
Other ideas + ways to achieve a high-end look for less…
You don’t have to use drop cloth to create a similar window curtain panel. A similar detailed edge can be added to a store-bought curtain, similar to what I did in my daughter’s room. In her space, I actually added the decorative fabric to the outside edge of the curtain panel instead of on top of the fabric. The typical store-bought panel wasn’t long enough, but the added fabric made it the ideal length.
If you are using a thinner fabric to create a window panel and want to have a heavier panel that will allow less light to shine through, check out what I did in my bedroom. Using drop cloth material (AGAIN), I took a regular weight cotton fabric and lined them. Depending on the fabric pattern, a decorative edge could be added to these style panels as well.
Ideas are limitless for what you can create for your windows!
Thanks to Lowe’s, I was able to create my most recent creation for less than $15. So next time your combing the paint aisle to grab some spray paint, don’t forget to check out the drop cloth section. Your mind will go bonkers with all that can be created!
Excited for the Fall and ready to tackle some home improvement and DIY projects? Lowe’s has it all.
Disclosure: I am so grateful to be apart of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!
What have you made using drop cloth? Have you ever thought of jazzing up your window curtain panels to create a custom look?
I hope you had a nice weekend and if you’re in Sandy’s path, stay safe! We’ll see what she brings our way later today and tomorrow.
In the meantime, I spent much of last week working on my next Lowe’s Creative Team challenge. This month’s project was a “create anything” project and it was the perfect opportunity to redo the foyer floor. This project has been one that I’ve wanted to tackle since moving into our home. The difficulty always has been, how.
The entrance into our home is not only the foyer, but also the space that leads to the garage, our laundry room, pantry, coat closet, and powder room. As being the major entrance and exit path into the home + all these important spaces, I couldn’t grasp the idea of a long period of downtime for this area. With 2 kids and a busy schedule, it was mere impossible to not make this an easy 1 day project. So that’s where the how came in. How could it happen?
Well about a year ago, I learned about Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile. This treasure has changed my life and saved a whole lotta headaches! I shared my first LVT project earlier this year when I redid my parents floor, and since have used it in many other spots like my bathroom and the kids.
When the time came to tackle this project, it was really the only product that would provide the desired look of ceramic tile (you would never know it’s vinyl) , plus the quick turnaround of starting and finishing in ONE DAY.
What’s incredible about this tile is that once it’s finished, it looks and feels EXACTLY like ceramic tile. You would never know it’s vinyl. Believe me, I would not use something that has a fake look!
My existing floor was in really good condition. None of the tiles were cracked or chipped, and the real reason for the new floor was to aesthetically update the space.
If you plan on tackling this project, it’s important to evaluate the condition of your existing floor. You may need to remove the existing floor or put down a leveler before installing the new floor. Chat with your local Lowe’s customer service peeps. My local guy was really helpful in directing me in the right direction.
To start off, I gathered my supplies for the tile installation part:
Triangle Ruler
X-acto Blade
Spacers ( I used 1/8 spacers)
A pencil
Snips
Cutting surface
There are various ways to start laying the tile. Most commonly, experts say to start the first tile in the center of the room, but for me I wanted a whole tile when you walk into the front door, so I started at that point. Since the room isn’t a perfect square, there really is no “center”.
Installing the tiles is really easy. Similar to regular peel-and-stick tiles (even though these luxury vinyl tiles are much thicker and more durable), you do just that…
Peel the backing off the corner edge (not the entire tile).
Using spacers, lay down the tile starting at the corner edge.
Once the tile is positioned in place, peel off the remainder of the paper backing.
For my foyer floor, I layed as many whole tiles first, then went back and tackled all the tiles that needed to be cut afterwards.
For the tiles that need to be cut, here’s how I tackled them…
Mark the cut with a pencil.
Use a triangle to draw a line and mark the cut.
Score the tile surface 2-3 times with an X-acto blade.
Gently snap the tile where it was scored.
For difficult, none straight cuts, here’s how I tackled them…
Sketch the design to be cut on the tile surface.
Cut out the design using an X-acto blade.
See if it fits and make needed adjustments.
Stick it down. It doesn’t need to be perfect because once it’s grouted, many imperfections aren’t obvious.
I put together a quick video (it’s pretty amateur, so don’t poke fun please) of how I cut the pieces if you need more know-how!
Ok, so once the tiles are set, you can move RIGHT ON TO GROUTING. That’s one of the beauties about groutable vinyl tile – there’s no downtime or waiting like with ceramic tile or natural stone.
To prep for grouting, it’s important to cover the areas where you don’t want grout. Basically that’s the base mouldings around the room. For this, I find it easiest and best to apply painters tape around the perimeter of the room.
Onto my favorite part because at this point, you’re more than halfway done 🙂
For the grouting steps, I gathered my supplies of:
Bowl of water
Tile sponge (one side has a sponge, the other side is abrasive)
Tile float
Luxury Vinyl Tile Grout
The tiling process for vinyl tile is exactly the same as if it were ceramic, but the grout itself is different. There is specially made pre-mixed grout specific for luxury vinyl tile. I used pre-mixed grout made by Precision Components which I found at Lowe’s in the same section as the groutable vinyl tiles. This premixed sanded acrylic grout has “good flexural strength and adhesion†and is recommended to use over traditional cement grouts.
*Don’t use sanded grout that you mix yourself!
I started applying the grout by the stairs, so I knew I could back out of the space without stepping on what I just grouted. Even though it’s okay to walk on the tiles, the grout does need time to set and dry. Once ready to apply the grout, I found it best to use a low angle and then a higher angle to wipe the excess away. Once the joint is filled with grout, you want to wipe as much away as possible so not to have huge clumps of grout left on the tile – it just makes more work to clean up.
Once you’ve got a section of about 3′ x 3′ covered in grout, use a damp sponge to wipe away the grout.
You can easily notice the areas that have been grouted and the areas that haven’t (yet).
Once the grout is completed, I took the tape off. It’s very important – and I’m only sharing this from a bad experience – to remove the tape when the grout is still somewhat wet otherwise once it’s hardened it’s near impossible (been there, done that).
Once the tape is off, the floor was done! YES. Major Project COMPLETE. This is a huge checkmark off my DIY list. Here’s the result…
This is the hallway that leads to the garage with the doors to the washer/dryer on the left and the doors to the coat closet/pantry on the right. I recently added a splash of color to this door and since it’s metal, it’s been a great place to display the kids artwork, coupons, etc. I’ll share more on that in a future post.
Do you see a little something sitting at the front door? That’s our new little 4 month old kitty. She’s so cute and she loves the new floor – hehe!
Groutable Vinyl Tile PROS and CONS
Affordable – Luxury Vinyl Tile runs about $1.00 – $2.00 sq. ft. and compared to ceramic or natural stone, it is very inexpensive. The tiles which I purchased from Lowe’s were $1.18 and the premixed grout (for my 200 sq. ft. space, I used 2 tubs) cost $8/each. Ceramic tile is available in a range of prices, but usually starts at $2 per sq. ft. , so the savings right there is 50%.
No Experience Required – And I’m completely being honest with you. It’s easy and if you’ve never tiled before, you can do it! I think a person with little experience can complete this project with ease. Measuring and cutting is really the most difficult part of the project, so take your time and measure correctly! Installing ceramic tile is not difficult, but it is tricky and experience is helpful. Cutting ceramic tile can often be difficult and time consuming. For prior ceramic tile projects, I’ve used tile snips, a tile cutter, and a wet saw. A wet saw is the best for cutting ceramic tile, but it’s not easy – I’ve made alot of mistakes. In my estimation, ceramic tile would take about double the time for installation compared to installing groutable vinyl tile.
Grout Right Away – Immediately after you install the groutable vinyl tiles, you can start the grouting process. This makes the entire process possible to complete in one day. With ceramic tile, after you finish laying it, you have to let the adhesive dry for 24 hours before grouting, which results in a 2+ day project, so essential ceramic tile takes double the time.
Availability and Selection – I purchased this groutable vinyl tile at Lowe’s, but other home improvement stores also offer similar products. The selection is not as vast as ceramic tile (which is a con), but I was surprised by the wide range of colors and textures.
One important part to mention is that the surface must be level underneath. If there is any flexibility in the subfloor, ie: gaps between the tiles and the subfloor, then the grout could crack and pull away from the tiles – this could happen with ceramic tile and LVT. Overall though, it’s a great product with an amazing result. As being a huge part of our home, this new floor sure brings a smile to my face!
Onto the giveaway, which is HUGE!
Now’s your chance to try this project in your home or something completely new and different. Lowe’s is generously giving one winner a $100 Gift Card to their store – how cool?!
This is the first giveaway that I’m using rafflecopter, so please email me if you’re having trouble – jburger.design@gmail.com (fingers crossed it works!).
Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!
I hope you’re having a great week and I want to thank all of you who left such kind comments about my daughter’s room makeover. I already shared one DIY creation in the room (the washi tape initial) and I’m back today to share another part of the space for my first challenge as a Lowe’s Creative Team Member (learn more about that here).
One of my favorite parts of the room was creating a play tent. My kids, as most kids do, love creating forts and tents with blankets and pillows. They love the idea of a hidden place to play, read books, and tell stories. When embarking on this makeover, I thought a play tent would be the perfect addition for a small space in the corner of her room. I didn’t want to make the tent dominate the space, but I also didn’t want it to be too small because what fun is that?!
My solution for the dilemma… A 3-in-1 tent with long panels to allow room for 1 child or 5.
Kids love options – am I right?! You never know if they want to play by themselves in a little cocoon or if they want all their friends around to have a tea party, play barbies, or battle like droids (parents of Star War fans know what I’m talking about).
When starting this project, I of course, headed to Lowe’s to gather my supplies.
1 x 6 board
flexible wood board (I ended up using a 4″ wide x 8′ long) wood toe kick thanks to the suggestion by a Lowe’s sales person)
nails, screws, and anchors
fabric of your choice
ribbon of your choice
drapery panels
To start off, I headed to my favorite home improvement store, Lowe’s, to gather my supplies.
1. Once home, I cut the 1″ x 6″ board into a 38″ piece and a 26″ piece (Lowe’s will also cut your wood pieces to size). The nailed the two ends together.
2. Using anchors and screws ( I always use the self-screwing kind), I attached to the two pieces of wood to the corner space. Then for the curve, I cut the 4″ wide x 8′ long toe kick in half. Using finishing nails, I attached the flexible curved wood to the end of each 1″ x 6″ to finish the canopy base.
The curved wood was a little flimsy (obviously so it can bend), so I secured it in the back by hot gluing on paint sticks.
Once the base was done, the fun part started… adding the fabric.
In knowing that I was going to use white long panels, I wanted to add a bit of whimsy and fun to the valance, so I used a fun Duralee Ikea fabric along with drop cloth and a white pom-pom trim.
3. I cut a piece of drop cloth that was slightly larger that the valance, then wrapped it around the front of the valance and secured it in the back with hot glue. The curved front sits about 1/2″ from the ceiling so I was able to wrap the fabric at the top as well.
Time to jazz it up!
4. After the drop cloth was in place, I added the colorful Ikat fabric. I determined that I wanted to have a 3″ band of the fabric and marked it along the valance. Then once again, I hot glued on the fabric. Easy-Peasy!
secured the fabric in the front…
secured the fabric on the back…
5. Then I added the cute white pom-pom trim. Of course with hot glue… again.
For the last part of this 3-in-1 Kids Play Tent, are the panels.
Ok, so let’s take a step back and let me explain how and why I created these panels. Because of the dynamic fuschia in the room, I thought white panels would be a quieter, fresh contrast. I also wanted them to feel light and airy, so decided on a sheer panel with a small pattern (sheers from Target). The overall length was only 84″ and needed to be much longer, so I added a solid white cotton fabric (used from Ikea window panels) to the bottom. They look pretty for the tent, but could also be used as drapery panels at a later date – I love creating things that can be used now AND later.
6. With right sides together, I sewed the two short ends of the panels. I wasn’t worried about the length because the longer the better – this is how the large canopy is created.
7. Once the two panels were created, I attached them with staples to the ceiling on the inside of the valance. I also overlapped the two panels creating a natural opening / closure.
8. Lastly, I added metal tie backs that I purchased at Lowe’s. These tiebacks are perfect to pull back the panels and have the space wide open – like a stage for the kids to put on a play.
And it’s done. An exciting 3-in-1 Kids Play Tent.
1 – Panels completely pulled back
2 – A cozy hidden nook with panels drawn
3 – Panels pulled out creating a larger “tent”
What a fun spot! Within minutes of having this space done, my kids had all their stuffed animals, blankets, and pillows tucked away inside.
Well my little girl is calling me to go back into her tent – I gotta go!
You can find more DIY creations in the Lowe’s Creative Magazine or the Lowe’s Ipad App for FREE!
Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!
I hope you’re having a great week and I want to thank all of you who left such kind comments about my daughter’s room makeover. I already shared one DIY creation in the room (the 
